Edirne Dağcısı
Niva gölgesi yeter
VAZ VEHICLES
VAZ-21213, VAZ-21214, VAZ-21214-20, VAZ-21215
REPAIR MANUAL
2
Contents
Section 1. General data ..........................................................4
Section 2. Engine ..................................................................7
Engine - removal and refitting..........................................12
Cylinder block ..................................................................19
Inspection and repair..................................................19
Pistons and connecting rods ...........................................21
Selecting piston to cylinder ........................................23
Dismantling and reassembly ......................................23
Crankshaft and flywheel ..................................................24
Design description......................................................24
Inspection and overhaul .............................................24
Cylinder head and valve gear..........................................26
General description ....................................................26
Valve clearance adjustment .......................................27
Cylinder head - removal and refitting .........................28
Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly............28
Camshaft and timing gear ...............................................32
Cooling system ...............................................................34
Lubrication system...........................................................38
Fuel system .....................................................................42
Carburettor.......................................................................46
Exhaust gas recirculation system ....................................55
Exhaust system ...............................................................46
Chapter 3. Power train.........................................................57
Clutch ..............................................................................57
Gearbox...........................................................................64
Transfer box ....................................................................73
Drive line .........................................................................80
Rear axle .........................................................................84
Front axle ........................................................................96
Chapter 4. Wheel suspensions ...........................................100
Front suspension...........................................................102
Rear suspension............................................................110
Chapter 5. Steering ...........................................................115
Steering - inspection, check and adjustment ................116
Steering mechanism......................................................118
Chapter 6 Braking system..................................................121
Front brakes ..................................................................128
Rear brakes...................................................................130
Handbrake.....................................................................134
‘hapter 7. Electrical system...............................................135
Wiring and fuses ...........................................................135
Battery ...........................................................................136
Alternator.......................................................................140
Starter motor .................................................................146
Ignition system ..............................................................149
Lighting and signalling...................................................156
Windscreen wiper/washer .............................................159
Instruments....................................................................163
Chapter 8. Bodywork.........................................................167
Bodywork - repair .........................................................169
Paintwork.......................................................................172
Door...............................................................................176
Bonnet, bumpers...........................................................179
Bodywork glazing and windscreen washers .................180
Instrument panel, seats.................................................181
Heater unit.....................................................................183
Chapter 9. VAZ-21213 vehicle modifications, alternative and additional
equipment...............................................................185
VAZ-21214 vehicle ........................................................185
Engine repair - description ............................................185
Central Injection Unit.....................................................186
VAZ-21214-20 vehicle ...................................................189
Engine 21214-10...........................................................190
VAZ-21215-10 vehicle ...................................................197
Cooling system..............................................................200
Lubrication system ........................................................202
Fuel system ...................................................................202
Exhaust emission system..............................................203
Electrical system ...........................................................203
Steering with BREED «SRS-40»
driver’s airbag in the steering wheel ............................209
Attachments.....................................................................212
Äâòîìîáèëè ‚Ä‡-21213, ‚ć-21214, ‚ć-21214-20, ‚ć-21215
óêîâîäñòâî ïî ðåìîíòó àâòîìîáèëåé
© ƒ……Ä‹œ›‰ „…Ä’ÄŒ…’ ć‚ˆ’ˆŸ Ä/Ž Ä‚’Ž‚ć
© Äâòîðû-ðàçðàáîò÷èêè: ‚îëãèí ‘. ., Šîçëîâ . ‹., Šîñàðåâ ‘. .
© åðåâîä ‡. Äíèñîâîé, ˆ. ‘òàíêîâîé
© Œàêåò-îðèãèíàë èçãîòîâëåí ŠŒ “Ä‚ ÄŽ Ä‚’Ž‚ć. Šîìïüþòåðíàß âÞðñòêà è îôîðìëåíèå - ‚. Äëàåâ, ‚. ˆâêîâ, ‚. Œèòðîôàíîâ. òåë. (8482) 22-54-19.
ˆçä. Ü 0021311
About this manual
This Manual provides information on routine maintenance and servicing and is intended for engineers
and mechanics of service outlets, garages and workshops.
The Manual covers the following models:
VAZ-21213 model - an off-road vehicle, three-door body of all-steel unitary construction,
with 1.7 litre carburettor engine;
VAZ-21214 model - with 1.7 litre Central Fuel Injection Engine;
VAZ-21214-20 model - with 1.7 litre Sequential Fuel Injection Engine;
VAZ-21215 model - with Turbo Diesel Engine.
The chapters of the manual give full descriptions of VAZ-21213 vehicle units. For general description,
service and repair procedures applicable to other models, refer to Section 9 where you can also find the
information on additional and alternative equipment fitted to the vehicles.
The Manual provides a detailed description of service operations on the base of OEM parts, with helpful
information on fault diagnosis, along with clear indications on removal and refitting, dismantling and
reassembly, adjustment and repair of various vehicle units.
We recommend to use special tools and working facilities as listed in Attachment No 2. Tighten the
thread connections to torques specified in Attachment No 1. Basic adjustments and inspection checks are
outlined in Attachment No 3. Refer to Attachment 4 for recommended lubricants and fuels.
Due to the on-going process of vehicle improvement aimed to enhance the VAZ vehicle reliability and
performance, the manufacturer can make alterations and design changes which may fail to enter this publication.
Such changes and alterations will be incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity.
The Manual describes the vehicle design as of October 1999.
3
Section 1. General Data
Table 1-1
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION
Features VAZ-21213 VAZ-21214 VAZ-21214-20 VAZ-21215
General
Number of seats 5 5 5 5
Kerb weight, kg 1210 1210 1210 1240
Payload, kg 400 400 400 400
Overall dimensions Fig.1-1
Maximum braking distance at GVW and 80 km/h
on horizontal dry flat asphalt road, not greater, meters:
¥ with service braking system applied 40 40 40 40
¥ with emergency system applied (either of two service braking circuits) 90 90 90 90
Maximum speed* in top gear, km/h:
¥ with driver and passenger 137 137 137 130
¥ at full load 135 135 135 128
Acceleration time*, 0 to 100 km/h through gear shifting, seconds:
¥ with driver and passenger 19 19 19 22
¥ at full load 21 21 21 24
Engine
Model 21213 21214 21214-10 DHW (XUD-9SD)
Type Four-stroke, Four-stroke, Four-stroke, Four-stroke,
petrol, carburettor petrol, CFI petrol, sequential injection turbo diesel
No of cylinders four in-line four in-line four in-line four in-line
Bore x stroke, mm 82õ80 82õ80 82õ80 83õ88
Capacity, litre 1.69 1.69 1.69 1.905
Compression ratio 9.3:1 9.3:1 9.3:1 21.5:1
Maximum power:
as per GOST 14846 (net), at least, êW (h.p.) 58 (78.9) 58 (78.9) 58.5 (79.6) 55 (74.8)
as per ISO 1585, êW 58 58 58.5 55
Maximum crankshaft speed at maximum power, rpm 5200 5400 5000 4600
Firing order 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2
____________________________________
* Measured using a special procedure
4
Features VAZ-21213 VAZ-21214 VAZ-21214-20 VAZ-21215
Power train
Clutch single dry plate, diaphragm spring
Clutch release mechanism hydraulic, servo spring
Transmission 5-speed, synchro units on all forward gears
Gear ratio:
¥ first gear 3.67 3.67 3.67 3.67
¥ second gear 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10
¥ third gear 1.36 1.36 1.36 1.36
¥ fourth gear 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
¥ fifth gear 0.82 0.82 0.82 0.82
¥ reverse gear 3.53 3.53 3.53 3.53
Transfer case two-gear, lockup differential
Gear ratio:
¥ top gear 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
¥ bottom gear 2.135 2.135 2.135 2.135
Transfer case differential bevel gears, two pinion gears
Drive line:
¥ from transmission to transfer case flexible coupling and CV joints
¥ from transfer case to front and rear axles two universal joints on needle bearings with grease nipples and yokes
¥ from front axle to wheels open, with CV joints
Final drive ratio, front and rear axles bevel, hypoid
¥ gear ratio 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9
¥ differential bevel, two pinion gears
Suspension and wheels
Front suspension independent, lower track control arms (wishbones), coil springs,
hydraulic telescopic shock-absorbers, anti-roll bar
Rear suspension rigid axle beam with Panhard rod and four trailing arms,
coil springs/hydraulic telescopic shock-absorbers
Wheels pressed-steel disc
¥ wheel rim 127J x 406 (5J x 16)
Tyres tubed, cross-ply or radial ply
size:
¥ cross-ply tyres 175 x 406 (6.95 x16),
¥ radial-ply tyres 175/80R16
5
Features VAZ-21213 VAZ-21214 VAZ-21214-20 VAZ-21215
Steering
Steering mechanism globoidal worm, double-crest roller, steering ratio 16.4
Steering linkage three links, relay rod and two steering rods,
drop arm, idler arm and swing arms
Braking system
Service braking system:
¥ front brakes disc-type, floating caliper, automatic disc-to-pad clearance adjustment
¥ rear brakes drum-type, self-applying shoes and automatic shoe-to-drum clearance adjustment
¥ brake operation line foot-type, hydraulic, dual circuit, split diagonally, vacuum servo unit and pressure regulator
Handbrake cable-operated on rear wheels
Electrical system
Wiring diagram single-wire, negative earth type
Voltage, volts 12
Battery 6‘’-55Ä, 55 ampere-hour
Alternator AC, integral diode plate and electronic voltage regulator
Starter motor pre-engaged, solenoid switch and overrun clutch
Body
Type all-steel unitary construction, monocoque, three-door, double-space
6
Fig.1-1. Basic overall dimensions of VAZ-21213 vehicle
Section 2. Engine
Refer to Fig.2-1 and Fig.2-2 for front and side sectional views of the engine.
7
Fig.2-1. Side sectional view of the engine
8
Fig.2-2. Front sectional view of the engine
Fault diagnosis
Symptom/fault Remedy
Engine fails to start
1. No fuel to carburettor:
- blocked fuel pipes or fuel filter;
- clogged carburettor or fuel pump filters;
- faulty fuel pump
2. Ignition system fault
3. Carburettor fuel cutoff solenoid fails to open at ignition switch-on:
- disconnected, loose or broken wiring to solenoid or solenoid control
unit;
- faulty solenoid control unit;
- defective fuel cutoff solenoid
4. Carburettor choke not opening at first flashes in cylinders
Engine idles erratically or stalls
1. Incorrectly adjusted idle speed
2. Defective carburettor solenoid control system
3. Faulty carburettor:
- blocked carburettor jets or internal passages;
- water in carburettor;
- broken choke control diaphragm
4. Ignition system fault
5. Vacuum leak through damaged hose between intake pipe and brake
servo unit
6. Air leak through gaskets at connections between intake pipe and carburettor/
cylinder head
7. Leaking distributor vacuum pipe
Engine lacks power and has poor acceleration
1. Partly open throttle
2. Choked air cleaner element
3. Ignition system fault
4. Faulty fuel pump
5. Faulty carburettor:
- faulty accelerator pump;
- blocked main jets;
- partly open choke;
- low fuel level in float chamber;
- leaky throttle enrichment diaphragm
6. Restricted fuel tank vent pipe
7. Incorrect valve clearances
8. Misaligned timing marks
9. Insufficient cylinder compression - below 1 ŒPà (10 kgf/ñm2):
- broken or sticking piston rings;
- poor valve-to-seat fitting;
- excessively worn cylinders or piston rings
9
1. Carry out the following operations:
- blow fuel pipes, clean fuel tank, renew fuel filter;
- clean filters;
- check pump operation and renew any damaged components
2. Refer to section ÇIgnition systemÈ
3. Carry out the following:
- check wiring and connections, renew damaged wires;
- renew control unit;
- replace solenoid with a new one
4. Eliminate any leakage of choke pull-down unit
1. Adjust idle speed
2. Refer to ÇEngine fails to startÈ
3. Carry out the following:
- blow carburettor jets and internal passages;
- remove water from carburettor, drain sludge from fuel tank;
- fit new diagram
4. Refer to section ÇIgnition systemÈ
5. Replace damaged hose
6. Tighten retaining nuts or renew gaskets; eliminate carburettor flange
deformation or fit new carburettor
7. Fit new pipe in place of damaged one
1. Adjust throttle linkage
2. Change filter element
3. Refer to section ÇIgnition systemÈ
4. Check pump operation and renew any damaged components
5. Carry out the following:
- check pump operation, renew damaged parts;
- blow jets with compressed air;
- adjust choke operation;
- adjust float;
- replace diaphragm
6. Blow pipe with compressed air
7. Adjust valve clearances
8. Adjust timing belt accordingly, align timing marks
9. Carry out the following:
- clean piston rings or grooves from carbon deposits, renew damaged components;
- replace damaged valves, regrind valve seats;
- replace pistons, rebore and hone cylinders.
Main bearing knocking
Typical knocking or thumping noticeable at sudden throttle opening at idle which intensifies with higher crankshaft rate. Excessive endfloat
of crankshaft causes sharper irregular knocking, especially noticeable during smooth increase or decrease in crankshaft speed.
1. Early ignition
2. Insufficient pressure oil
3. Loose flywheel securing bolts
4. Excessive main bearing running clearance
5. Excessive thrust washers-to-crankshaft clearance
Big-end bearing knocking
Big-end bearing knocking is sharper than that of main bearings. It is noticeable during engine idle at sudden throttle opening. The origin of
knocking can be easily identified through switching off spark plugs one at a time.
1. Insufficient oil pressure
2. Excessive big-end bearing running clearance
Piston slap
Thumping noise caused by piston ÇrunoutÈ in cylinder. Most noticeable at low crankshaft speed and under load.
1. Excessive piston-to-cylinder bore clearance
2. Excessive gudgeon pin-to-piston groove clearance
Knocking of intake or exhaust valves
Excessive valve clearances cause typical regular noise; its frequency is lower than the frequency of any other engine noise, since the valves
are operated by camshaft rotating at half the crankshaft speed.
1. Excessive valve clearances
2. Broken valve spring
3. Excessive valve-to-guide clearance
4. Worn camshaft lobes
5. Loose locknut of adjuster bolt
Excessive noise of camshaft operation line
Noise from camshaft operation line is caused by clearances between engagement elements and becomes noticeable in general engine noise
at low crankshaft speed.
1. Loose chain caused by general wear
2. Broken chain tensioner shoe or damper
3. Seized chain tensioner plunger rod
Insufficient oil pressure at warm engine idle
1. Foreign particles entrapped under oil pump relief valve
2. Seized oil pressure relief valve
3. Worn oil pump gears
4. Excessive main bearing running clearance
5. Excessive camshaft bearing journal-to-bearing housing clearance
6. Incorrect oil grade or inappropriate oil quality
Excessive oil pressure on warm engine
1. Seized oil pressure relief valve
2. Excessively tough spring of oil pressure relief valve
10
1. Adjust ignition timing
2. Refer to subsection ÇInsufficient oil pressure at idleÈ
3. Tighten bolts to torque specified
4. Grind journals and renew bearing shells
5. Fit new thrust washers, check clearance
1. Renew valve
2. Renew spring
1. Refer to ÇInsufficient oil pressure at idleÈ
2. Fit new bearing shells and regrind journals
1. Adjust clearances
2. Renew spring
3. Replace worn parts
4. Renew camshaft and levers
5. Adjust clearance between lever and cam, tighten locknut
1. Renew pistons, rebore and hone cylinders
2. Fit new rings or new pistons with rings
1. Tighten chain
2. Renew tensioner shoe or damper
3. Eliminate seizure
1. Clean valve from foreign particles and flash, clean oil pump
2. Renew valve
3. Repair oil pump
4. Turn journals and renew bearing shells
5. Renew camshaft or bearing housing
6. Change oil as recommended in Attachment 4
Excessive oil consumption
1. Oil leaking through engine gaskets
2. Restricted crankcase ventilation system
3. Worn piston rings
4. Broken piston rings
5. Foul windows of oil scraper rings or foul slots in piston grooves due to
wrong oil
6. Worn or damaged valve oil caps
7. Badly worn valve stems or guides
Excessive fuel consumption
1. Choke not fully opened
2. Excessive resistance to vehicle motion
3. Incorrect ignition timing
4. Defective distributor vacuum unit
5. High fuel level in carburettor:
- leaking needle valve or its gasket;
- seizure or excessive friction hindering normal float operation
6. Choked carburettor air jets
7. Leaking part throttle enrichment diaphragm
8. Carburettor solenoid failed to shut off fuel at overrun:
- no earthing of idle switch sliding contact;
- broken wire between control module and carburettor idle switch;
- faulty control module
Engine overheating
Coolant temperature gauge needle is in the red sector. Start tracing the failure with checking coolant temperature gauge and its sender (Refer
to section ÇInstrumentationÈ).
1. Slackened pump and alternator drive belt
2. Insufficient coolant in system
3. Incorrect ignition timing
4. Dirty radiator outside
5. Defective thermostat
6. Faulty radiator cap inlet valve (opening pressure is below 0.07 MPa
(0.7 kgf/cm2)
7. Defective coolant pump
Sudden coolant drop in expansion tank
1. Damaged radiator
2. Damaged cooling hoses or pipe gaskets, loose clips
3. Leaking heater tap or heater matrix
4. Leaking water pump seal
5. Damaged radiator cap or cap seal
6. Defective cylinder head gasket
7. Leaks from fissures in cylinder block or cylinder head
8. Leaks from fissures in water pump housing, water jacket return pipe,
thermostat, expansion tank or intake pipe
11
1. Tighten fittings or replace gaskets and oil seals
2. Wash components of crankcase ventilation system
3. Rebore and renew pistons and rings
4. Renew rings
5. Clean windows and slots of carbon, change motor oil as recommended in
Attachment 4
6. Renew oil caps
7. Renew valves, repair cylinder head
1. Adjust choke linkage
2. Check and adjust pressures in tyres, braking system, wheel alignment
3. Adjust ignition timing
4. Renew vacuum unit or ignition distributor
5. Carry out the following:
- check for any foreign matter entrapped between needle and valve seat;
renew valve or gasket as applicable;
- check and when necessary replace floats
6. Clean jets
7. Replace diaphragm
8. Following to be done:
- clean solenoid contact surfaces;
- check wiring and connections, renew damaged wire;
- renew control unit
1. Adjust drive belt tension
2. Top up coolant to cooling system
3. Adjust ignition timing
4. Clean radiator outside with water jet
5. Renew thermostat
6. Renew cap
7. Check pump operation, renew or repair pump
1. Repair or renew radiator
2. Renew damaged hoses or gaskets, tighten hose clips
3. Renew tap or heater matrix
4. Renew seal
5. Renew cap
6. Renew gasket
7. Check cylinder block and cylinder head for leakage; renew damaged components
in case of evident cracking
8. Check for leaks; renew components in case of fissures; minor leaks can
be cured by adding a radiator sealant such as ˆˆ‘‘-1
Engine - removal and refitting
Put the vehicle on a lift or over an inspection pit and apply the
handbrake. Take out the spare wheel and its supporting pipe.
Disconnect the battery leads and withdraw the battery. Unbolt
and remove the bonnet.
To remove the air cleaner, disconnect its hoses, remove the
cover and filter element. Temporarily plug the carburettor.
Disconnect the throttle linkage and choke cable.
Disconnect the wires from the fuel cutoff solenoid, idle switch,
oil pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, ignition distributor,
alternator and starter motor.
Drain coolant from the radiator, cylinder head and heater unit.
To do this, shift the heater tap control lever to the right, undo the
caps on the cylinder block left side and radiator right-hand fluid
cooler, screw instead the return hoses connectors, then undo the
caps of the expansion tank and radiator.
Separate the fan cowl halves and remove the fan blower
cowl. Disconnect the coolant supply and return hoses from the
engine. Undo two bolts retaining the radiator to the body, release
the top catch of the fan cowl, move the top radiator toward the
engine and withdraw the radiator from the engine bay complete
with the thermostat and associated hoses. Remove the fan cowl.
Undo the nuts holding the downpipe to exhaust manifold.
Detach the downpipe from the bracket on the transmission and
lower it down.
Slacken the clips, disconnect the hoses from the fuel pump and
secure the pump in the position that excludes any fuel leakage.
Detach the fuel return hose from the carburettor.
Release the clips and disconnect the hoses from the heater
manifolds, detach the brake servo hose from the intake pipe.
Use socket spanner 02.7812.9500 to unbolt the starter motor
from the clutch housing. Undo the bolts holding the clutch housing
cover to the lower clutch. Using Ä.55035 undo the clutch bellhousing
to the cylinder block.
Hoist the beam ’‘Ž-3/379 and secure the engine right side
to the lifting yoke at the front exhaust manifold stud, while the left
side shall be secured through the clutch housing mounting hole.
Slightly tension the hoist, undo the nuts that retain front
engine mounting rubbers 3 (Fig.2-3) to the side brackets, undo
the nut and bolt holding the front axle housing to the engine
brackets. Disconnect the engine negative lead.
Lift out the engine, first raise its top in order to take the bolts
of the mounting rubber out of the bracket holes, then move the
engine forward in order to release the input shaft from the bearing
in the crankshaft flange.
12
Fig. 2-3. Engine mounting unit:
1 - right-hand support bracket with rubber; 2 - left-hand support bracket; 3 - mounting rubber; 4 - cross-piece, rear mounting; 5 - bracket with rear mounting
Remove the starter motor heat shield, followed by the starter
motor, hot air intake complete with the supply hose. Remove from
the cylinder head two side brackets together with the front engine
mounting rubbers.
Unbolt the clutch and withdraw it.
Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. Draw special
attention to the engine-to-transmission connection: the input shaft
must precisely engage the clutch disc splines. Furthermore, for
perfect engine/transfer box centering, the centering washers of
the front engine mounting rubbers must be in the respective side
brackets holes.
Engine - dismantling
Flush the engine, mount it on a stand for dismantling and
drain the oil sump.
Remove the carburettor, for that disconnect the hoses and
throttle operating rod.
Remove the fuel pump and ignition distributor. Use spanner
67.7812.9514 to unscrew the spark plugs and coolant temperature
sensor.
Remove the alternator and water pump drivebelt. Remove the
alternator and its retaining bracket.
On the pump and exhaust manifold disconnect the coolant
supply pipe from the heater.
From the pump and exhaust manifold disconnect the coolant
supply pipe from the heater.
Use tool Ä.60312 to undo the oil filter with seal, remove the
oil filter and seal (Fig.2-4).
Unscrew the oil pressure warning lamp sender. Remove the
crankcase vent breather cover, crankcase and oil pump. Remove
the oil separator drain pipe catch and take out the oil separator.
To remove the crankshaft pulley, secure the flywheel using
Ä.60330/R (Fig. 2-10) and undo the nut using tool Ä.5012 (Fig. 2-
5). Withdraw the valve cover and timing cover. Unbolt the
camshaft and oil pump drive shaft sprockets.
Slacken chain tensioner cap nut 6 (Fig.2-6), undo nut 4 holding
it to the cylinder head, remove the tensioner; then unbolt and
remove chain tensioner shoe 3.
Undo the chain stop pin, remove the oil pump and camshaft
sprockets, then take off the chain.
Loosen studs 4 nuts (Fig. 2-7). Remove the camshaft bearing
housing. Undo studs 4 nuts, remove thrust flange 1 and withdraw
the camshaft exercising maximum care not to damage the
camshaft bearing housing surface.
Unbolt the cylinder head and withdraw it complete with the
exhaust manifold and intake pipe.
13
Fig.2-4. Removing the oil filter using tool Ä.60312 Fig.2-5. Releasing the crankshaft nut using tool Ä.50121
Fig.2-6. Removing the chain tensioner and damper:
1 - camshaft timing chain; 2 - shoe retaining bolt; 3 - tensioner chain; 4 - tensioner
retainer nut; 5 - tensioner housing; 6 - tensioner cap nut; 7 - chain
damper securing bolts; 8 - oil pump shaft sprocket retaining bolt
Remove thrust flange 1 (Fig.2-8) of the oil pump drive shaft
and take the shaft out of the cylinder block.
Using picker Ä.40005/1/7 (kit Ä.40005) drive the sprocket off
the crankshaft (Fig.2-9).
Undo the connecting rod bolts, remove the big end cap and
carefully lift the pistons with the conrods through the cylinders.
Mark the piston, connecting rod, main and big-end bearing shells
for position to facilitate the reassembly.
WARNING. When removing the pistons and conrods, do
not press out the connecting rod bolts.
Fit tool 5 (Fig.2-10), undo bolts 3, remove washer 4 and the
flywheel from the crankshaft. Remove the front clutch housing
cover.
Using tool Ä.40006, take the input shaft bearing out from the
crankshaft (Fig.2-11).
Remove the crankshaft oil seal retainer.
Unbolt the main bearing cap bolts, remove them complete
with the lower bearing shells, then lift out the crankshaft, top
bearing shells and rear bearing thrust washers.
Engine - reassembly
Follow the engine reassembly procedure as below:
Locate a clean cylinder block and screw in any missing dowels.
Oil the crankshaft bearing shells, thrust washers, pistons and
oil seals. Always fit new crankshaft oil seals when reassembling
the engine after overhaul.
14
Fig.2-7. Removing the camshaft thrust flange:
1 - thrust flange; 2 - camshaft; 3 - bearing housing; 4 - thrust flange securing
stud
Fig.2-8. Removing the oil pump shaft:
1 - thrust flange; 2 - flange securing bolt; 3 - oil pump shaft; 4 - wrench
Fig.2-10. Removing the flywheel:
1 - wrench; 2 - flywheel; 3 - flywheel securing bolt; 4 - washer; 5 - tool
Ä.60330/R to lock the flywheel stationary; 6 - front clutch housing cover
Fig. 2-9. Removing the crankshaft sprocket using a picker
Fit the centre main bearing shells without an oilway into the
bearing recesses. Fit into other cylinder bores the bearing shells
with an oilway, while into the relevant main bearing caps - the
bearing shells without an oilway. Lower the crankshaft into position,
then stick two thrust washers into the rear bearing recesses
(Fig.2-12).
WARNING. The washers must be fitted so that their oilways
face away from the bearings in the block and cap (antifriction
coat is applied on the washer surface). At the rear of
the rear main bearing there fitted a sintered thrust washer
(yellow), while at the front - a steel-aluminium thrust washer.
Locate the main bearing caps according to the marks on their
outer surface (Fig.2-13). Tighten the cap securing bolts.
Check the crankshaft endfloat. To do this, turn the cylinder
block to have the rear side up and position the dial gauge foot
against the crankshaft flange (Refer to Fig.2-14). Moving the
crankshaft up and down (using screwdrivers, for instance), check
the crankshaft endfloat to be within 0.06-0.26 ìì. If not, adjust
accordingly and replace the old thrust washers with new ones or
fit thicker thrust washers.
Locate the rear oil seal housing gasket on the crankshaft
flange, insert the front clutch housing cover bolts into the respective
bores (Fig.2-15). Place the oil seal housing on tool
41.7853.4011 and slide it to on the crankshaft flange; next secure
it to the cylinder block with the bolts.
Locate front clutch housing cover 6 (Fig.2-10) over two centering
pins (Fig. 2-16). Secure the cover to the rear oil seal housing
with nuts.
15
Fig.2-11. Pressing out the bearing from the crankshaft using tool A.40006 Fig. 2-12. Refitting the thrust washers to the rear mounting
Fig.2-13. Marks on the main bearing caps (bearing are numbered from the
engine front end)
Fig.2-14. Checking the crankshaft endfloat
Locate the flywheel in position so that the marking (a cut-out)
near the rim is against the No 4 cylinder crankpin axis. While
holding the flywheel stationary with tool Ä.60330/R, bolt it to the
crankshaft flange to the specified torque.
Using a ring compressor (tool 67.8125.9502), fit the pistons
and connecting rods to the cylinders (Fig.2-17).
WARNING. The hole for gudgeon pin in the piston is 1.2
mm set off, so the arrows on the piston crown must face the
timing belt end of the engine when inserting the pistons into
the cylinders.
Press the big-end bearing shells into the connecting rods and
caps. Guide the conrods and big-end caps onto the crankshaft
journal, then tighten the connecting rod bolts. The big-end caps
must be positioned so that the cylinder number on the cap is
against the cylinder number on the connecting rod big-end.
Refit the crankshaft sprocket. Locate the oil pump shaft and
secure it with the thrust flange.
Insert two centering pins into the cylinder block (Fig.2-17) and
locate the cylinder head gasket over them.
WARNING. Always fit the new cylinder head gasket.
Never re-use the old gasket.
Before refitting the gasket, remove any oil from the mating
surfaces of the block and cylinder head. Make sure the
gasket is perfectly clean and dry. Avoid any incidental oiling
of the gasket.
Turn the crankshaft so that the pistons are midway in the
cylinder bore.
Refit the cylinder head complete with the valves, exhaust
manifold and intake pipe over the centering pins.
Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the established procedure
(Fig.2-18) in four steps to ensure a reliable fit and exclude further
tightening during vehicle servicing.
1st step - tighten the bolts 1-10 to 20 N¥m(2 kgf¥m);
2nd step - tighten the bolts 1-10 to 69.4-85.7 N¥m
(7.1-8.7 kgf¥m), while the bolt 11 to 31.36 -
39.1 N¥m (3.2-3.99 kgf¥m);
3rd step - turn the bolts 1-10 to 90¡;
4th step - turn again all bolts 1-10 to further 90¡.
WARNING. The cylinder head bolts can be re-used only
when their length is not in excess of 120 mm, otherwise
renew the bolt.
Before reassembly, immerse the bolts, thread and head,
into engine oil. Allow the excess oil drip for at least 30 minutes.
Remove all entrapped oil from the bolt bores in the
cylinder head.
16
Fig.2-15. Crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
The lugs (arrowed) for centering the housing against the crankshaft flange
Fig.2-17. Fitting the pistons complete with piston rings using ring compressor;
centering pins of the cylinder head (arrowed)
Fig.2-16. Clutch dowels (arrowed black) and clutch housing centering
pins (arrowed white)
Turn the flywheel so that the mark on the crankshaft sprocket
is against the cylinder block mark (Fig.2-19).
Check to see the camshaft bearing housing centering pins
are in position (Fig.2-20). Refit the sprocket to the camshaft complete
with the bearing housing and turn the camshaft so that the
timing mark in the sprocket is aligned against the mark on the
bearing housing (Fig.2-21). Remove the sprocket and without
changing the camshaft position, refit the bearing housing to the
cylinder head so that the centering pins are in the respective
bores of the bearing housing. Secure the bearing housing, tightening
the nuts in the sequence as shown in Fig.2-22.
Refit the chain vibration damper.
Refit the camshaft timing chain:
- fit the chain onto the camshaft sprocket and position the
sprocket so its TDC mark is aligned with the respective mark on
the bearing housing (Fig.2-21). Do not tighten the sprocket bolt
fully;
- fit the sprocket to the oil pump shaft, but do not tighten the
retaining bolt fully;
- fit the chain tensioner shoe and tensioner, but do not tighten
the cap nut so that the tensioner spring can compress the
shoe; screw the chain stop pin into the cylinder block;
- turn the crankshaft two turns forward to ensure the chain
tension required; check the indentations in the sprockets are
aligned with TDC marks in the cylinder block and bearing housing
(Fig.2-19 and Fig.2-21);
- when the marks are aligned, hold the flywheel stationary
with tool Ä.60330/R (Fig.2-10), then tighten the sprocket securing
bolts and chain tensioner cap nut to the torques specified, bend
the sprocket bolt lock washers; should the marks are not aligned,
repeat the chain refitting procedure.
17
Fig. 2-18. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
Fig. 2-19. Aligning the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and cylinder
block
Fig.2-20. Centering pins for camshaft bearing housing
Fig.2-21. Aligning the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket against bearing
housing mark:
1 - mark in sprocket; 2 - mark on bearing housing
Adjust the clearance between the camshaft lobes and valve
levers.
Refit the camshaft cover (Fig.2-23) complete with the gasket
and oil seal to the cylinder block, do not tighten the retaining bolts
and nuts fully. Using tool 41.7853.4010 centralize the cover
against the crankshaft end, then tighten the retaining nuts and
bolts to the torques specified.
Fit the alternator and oil pump pulley, then secure it with the
nut.
Fit the oil filter complete with the gasket, manually screw it to
the union on the cylinder block. Refit the crankcase vent oil separator,
breather cover and secure the oil separator drain pipe with
the clip.
Fit oil pump 1(Fig.2-24), then fit the oil sump with the gasket.
Fit the coolant pump, alternator bracket and alternator. Fit the
belt around the pulleys and adjust the belt tension.
Fit the heater matrix supply pipe and cooling water jacket outlet
pipe to the cylinder block. Secure the heater matrix drain pipe
to the coolant pump and outlet pipe.
Fit the instrumentation sensors.
Fit the oil pump / distributor gear, followed by the ignition distributor.
Insert the spark plugs, place spanner 67.7812.9515 on
the spark plugs and tighten the spark plugs with a torque wrench
to the torques specified.
Fit the fuel pump as outlined in section ÇFuel systemÈ.
Fit the carburettor and reconnect the hoses. Cover the carburettor
with a provisional cap.
WARNING. Never secure the carburettor (or tighten its
retaining nuts) when it is warm.
Fit the valve cover complete with the gasket and fuel piping
bracket.
Fit the air cleaner, to do this secure the hoses to the air cleaner
housing, fit the filter housing complete with the gasket to the
carburettor, then fit the mounting plate and secure the housing
with nuts. Locate the filter element and secure the air cleaner
cover.
Reconnect the HT leads to the distributor and spark plugs.
Fill the engine with motor oil through the oil filler in the valve
cover.
18
Fig.2-22. Camshaft bearing housing nuts tightening sequence
Fig.2-24. Refitting the oil pump:
1 - oil pump; 2 - drain pipe lock; 3 - oil separator drain pipe
Fig.2-23. Timing cover
Projections (arrowed) for cover centering against crankshaft pulley hub
Engine run-in after overhaul
After overhaul the engine is bench tested (run-in) at no loads
under the following cycle:
750-800 rpm 2 minutes
1000 rpm 3 minutes
1500 rpm 4 minutes
2000 rpm 5 minutes
Locate the engine on the test bench, start the engine and
make checks with respect to the following items:
- evidence of coolant or fuel leaks through mating components,
pipe connections or gaskets;
- oil pressure and oil leaks through gaskets;
- ignition timing;
- idle speed;
- carburettor / intake pipe tightness;
- abnormal knock.
In case of any malfunctions or unknown rattle, stop the
engine, eliminate the faults, then continue the tests.
In case of oil leaks through the gasket between the valve
cover and cylinder head or through the gaskets between the oil
sump, cylinder block and covers, tighten the securing bolts to the
torque specified. If oil leaks persist, check the correct fitting of the
gaskets and renew when applicable.
Since the overhauled engine is not fully bed-in and frictions
between the working surfaces of renewed parts show significant
resistance to the rotation, a certain run-in period is required.
This especially concerns those engines, where the pistons,
main / big-end bearing shells have been renewed, or the crankshaft
journals have been reground, or the cylinders - honed.
Therefore during run-in after the engine overhaul, never allow
the engine to run at maximum loads. When in the vehicle, always
run-in the engine at the speeds which are recommended for the
run-in periods.
In-vehicle engine inspection after overhaul
Locate the engine in the vehicle, thoroughly check its correct
mounting.
Run the engine for a while, then check for:
- coolant or fuel leaks through pipe connections, tighten when
necessary;
- full throttle opening and closing by the carburettor cable,
adjust accordingly, if necessary;
- alternator drivebelt tension, adjust, when applicable;
- reliable wiring connections and operation of the warning
lamps in the instrument cluster.
WARNING. Never check the engine or vehicle on the
roller stand without additional rollers for the front wheels.
Cylinder block
General description
The cylinder block basic sizes are shown in Fig.2-25.
The cylinder block is of a low-alloyed cast iron. The cylinder
bores are of five classes in steps of 0.01 mm and are designated
by the letters A, B, ‘, D, …. The cylinder class is engraved on the
cylinder block bottom face. (Fig.2-26).
The cylinders can be rebored to accommodate the oversize
pistons of 0.4 mm and 0.8 mm bigger diameters.
The main bearing caps are machined complete with the cylinder
block; therefore they are not interchangeable and feature distinctive
notches on the outside surface (Fig.2-13).
Inspection and repair
Inspection. Wash the cylinder block thoroughly and clear the oilways.
Blow dry with compressed air and inspect the cylinder
block visually. Make sure there are no cracks in the mountings or
elsewhere in the cylinder block.
When cooling water is suspected in the crankcase, use a
special test bench to examine the cylinder block for leaks. To do
this, plug the cylinder block cooling water jacket ports, force in
some room temperature water at 0.3 MPa (3 kgf/sq.cm). There
should be no evidence of water leaks from the cylinder block within
2 minutes.
When coolant is found contaminated with oil, do not strip the
engine completely, rather check the cylinder block for cracks in
the area of the oilways. For that, drain the coolant from the cooling
system, remove the cylinder head, refill the cylinder block
water jacket with water and apply compressed air to the vertical
oilway in the cylinder. If there are any bubbles in the water of the
cooling water jacket, renew the cylinder block.
Examine the split face between the cylinder block and cylinder
head using a straight-edge and feeler blades. Position the
straight-edge diagonally and using a feeler gauge measure at the
centre, both transversely and longitudinally. The flatness to be
within 0.1 mm tolerance.
Cylinder repair. Check the cylinders for wear to be maximum
0.15 mm.
When available, use a dial inside gauge to measure the bore
diameter (Fig.2-27) in four lands, both longitudinally and transversely
(Fig.2-28). Use tool 67.8125.9502 to set the inside gauge
to zero.
19
20
Fig.2-26. Cylinder size class engraved on the cylinder block
Fig.2-27. Measuring the cylinder bore with the inside dial gauge:
1 - inside dial gauge; 2 - setting to zero against reference gauge
Fig.2-25. Basic sizes of the cylinder block
There is practically no wear in the land 1 area of the cylinders.
Compare the values measured on the first and other cylinder
lands to see the amount of the cylinder wear.
When the maximum wear is over 0.15 mm, rebore the cylinders
to the nearest oversize; provide 0.03 mm honing allowance
on the diameter. Hone the cylinder walls so that the difference
between the oversize piston diameter and cylinder bore is 0.025
- 0.045 mm.
Pistons and connecting rods
General Description
The basic sizes of the pistons and connecting rods are
shown in Fig.2-29.
Piston is an aluminium casting. The piston weight is
precisely maintained during the manufacturing process.
Consequently, there is no need to select the matching piston of
the same weight class during the engine assembly.
There are five classes (Ä, ‚, ‘, D, …) of the piston according
to their major diameter, in steps of 0.01 mm. The piston has a
complex outside shape: tapered in height and oval in the crosssection
area. Therefore, the piston diameter must be measured
in the plane normal to the gudgeon pin at 55 mm from the piston
crown.
There are three classes (1, 2, 3) of pistons, as to the hole for
the gudgeon pin, in step of 0.004 mm. The classes of piston
diameters and holes for the gudgeon pin are stamped on the piston
crown (Fig.2-30).
The oversize piston major diameter is 0.4 or 0.8 mm bigger.
The 0.4 step is marked in the form of a triangle, while the 0.8 mm
step is marked as a square.
Use the arrow on the piston crown for correct piston orientation
and fitting within the cylinder. The arrow of the piston must
face the timing belt end of the engine.
Gudgeon pin is of steel, hollow, floating-type, i.e. freely
operates in the piston bosses and connecting rod bush. The gudgeon
pin is secured in the hole with two circlips.
As to the outside diameter the gudgeon pin are of three
classes in step of 0.004 mm. The class is paint marked on the
gudgeon pin face: 1st class - blue paint, 2nd class - green paint,
3rd class - red paint.
Piston rings are of cast iron. The top compression ring has
a chromed barrel face. The bottom compression ring is of the
scraper type. The oil control piston ring features chromed working
edges and has a coil expander (spreader ring).
The oversize rings are marked as 40 or 80, which corresponds
respectively to 0.4 or 0.8 mm step in the major diameter.
Connecting rod is of forged steel.The connecting rod is
machined together with the big end cap, therefore they are interrelated.
The cylinder number (6 in Fig.2-30) is stamped on the
caps and connecting rods to prevent confusion when refitting into
the cylinders. During reassembly the figures on the connecting
rod and cap should face the same side.
21
Fig.2-28. Measuring the cylinder bore:
A and B - direction of measurement; 1, 2, 3 and 4 - No of lands
Fig.2-29. Basic dimensions of pistons and connecting rods
The connecting rod small-end features a pressed-in steelbronze
bush. As to the diameter of the bush, the connecting rods
are divided into three classes in steps of 0.004 mm (similar to the
pistons).
The class number (5 in Fig.2-30) is engraved on the big-end
cap.
The connecting rod small-end and big-end are classified
weight-wise (Table 2-1) and are paint marked on the connecting
rod. The engine must always be fitted with the connecting rods of
the same weight class. The connecting rod weight can be adjusted
by removing excess metal from the bosses on the small-end
or big-end up to the minimum size of 16.5 mm or 35.5 mm (Fig.2-
31).
22
Fig.2-30. Marking on the piston and connecting rod:
1 - arrow on piston crown for orientation in cylinder; 2 - oversize; 3 - piston class;
4 - class of gudgeon pin hole; 5 - connecting rod class as to gudgeon pin hole;
6 - cylinder No
Fig.2-31. Locations of possible metal removal subject to adjusted connecting
rod small-end and big-end weights
Table 2-1
Connecting rod classification as to
small-end and big-end weights
Connecting rod weight, g Class Paint mark
small-end big-end
519±3 Ä white
186±2 525±3 ‚ blue
531±3 ‘ red
519±3 D black
190±2 525±3 E violet
531±3 F green
519±3 G yellow
194±2 525±3 brown
531±3 I orange
Selecting piston to cylinder
The design clearance between the piston and cylinder bore
(for new parts) is 0.025 - 0.045. The condition must be ensured
through prior measurements of the associated parts and fitting of
the pistons which belong to the same class of cylinders. The maximum
permissible gap (for worn parts) is 0.15 mm.
When the engine, in the course of operation, shows a clearance
of over 0.15 mm, reselect the pistons to the cylinders to
have the clearance as close to the design value as possible.
The pistons of classes Ä, ‘, … are intended for replacement.
These classes can be selected to closely match any cylinder in
the event of the engine overhaul, since the pistons and cylinders
are classified with small overlapping in the sizes. It means, the
piston of class C can match the cylinders of class B and D.
Dismantling and reassembly
Dismantling. Prise out the gudgeon pin circlips from the piston,
press out the gudgeon pin and detach the connecting rod
from the piston. Remove the piston rings.
The bolts are pressed into the connecting rod and must never
be pressed out from the connecting rods during the engine or piston/
connecting rod dismantling.
When some components of the piston or connecting rod are
not damaged or show little wear, they can be re-used. Identify
them accordingly during dismantling to facilitate further reassembly
with the respective components and to the original cylinder.
Reassembly. Before reassembly, select the gudgeon pin to
match the piston and connecting rod. For new components the
class of the holes for the gudgeon pin in the connecting rod and
pistons must be identical to the class of the gudgeon pin. In case
of used components, for perfect mating, the gudgeon pin when
oiled should fit the relevant piston hole by force of the hand thumb
(Fig.2-32); it should not drop out while held as shown in Fig.2-33.
If the gudgeon pin drops, replace it with a new one of the next
class. When the piston is fitted with the gudgeon pin of the third
class, renew the piston, gudgeon pin and connecting rod.
The reassembly of the piston and connecting rod is a reversal
of dismantling. After reassembly oil the gudgeon pin through
the holes in the piston bosses. Refit the piston rings in the order
as detailed below.
Oil the piston rings and grooves in the piston. Arrange the piston
rings so that the gap of the first compression ring is at a 45¡
interval to the gudgeon pin; space the gap of the second compression
ring at about 180¡ interval to the first compression gap,
afterwards align the gap of the oil ring at about 90¡ interval to the
first compression ring gap.
23
Fig.2-32. Fitting the gudgeon pin using the thumb pressure Fig.2-33. Checking the gudgeon pin fitting
Make certain the second compression ring is positioned with
the recess facing down (Fig.2-30), while the TOP (or ‚…•) mark
should face up (the piston crown).
Before refitting the oil ring, check to see the joint of the coil
expander (spreader ring) is on the side opposite to the ring gap.
Inspection
Scrape away all traces of carbon from the piston and remove
all carbon deposits from the piston/connecting rod oilways.
Thoroughly examine the components. Make sure there are
no cracks of any sort on the piston, piston rings, gudgeon pin,
connecting rod or big-end cap. Renew the bearing shell if there
is obvious scoring or scuffing.
The piston-ring-to-groove wall clearance is checked using
feeler blades as shown in Fig.2-34, fitting the ring into the respective
groove. For new components the design clearance (rounded
off to the nearest 0.01 mm) is 0.04-0.07 mm for the first compression
ring; 0.03-0.06 mm for the second compression ring and
0.02-0.05 mm for the oil control ring. When worn, the tolerance
must not exceed the specified maximum of 0.15 mm.
The piston ring gap should be checked with a feeler gauge
via inserting the rings into the gauge (Fig.2-35), with the bore
equal to the piston ring nominal diameter ±0.003 mm. Use gauge
67.8125.9502 for the normal 82 mm rings.
The gap for all new piston rings should be within 0.25 to 0.45
mm. The maximum permitted gap for worn rings is 1 mm.
Crankshaft and flywheel
Design description
Basic dimensions of the crankshaft are shown in Fig.2-36.
Crankshaft is cast-iron, of five bearings. The crankshaft
journals can be reground during the engine overhaul when the
diameter is reduced by 0.25 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.75 mm and 1mm.
The crankshaft endfloat is restricted by two thrust washers.
The thrust washers are fitted on both sides of the rear main bearing:
a sintered one (yellow) at the rear end and a steel-aluminium
one at the front end. The thrust washers are of two sizes - standard
and 0.127 mm thicker.
Crankshaft bearing shells are thin-walled, aluminium with
steel backing. The upper bearing shells of No 1, 2, 4 è 5 bearings
have inner oil grooves, whilst the lower bearing shells are plain
shells. The upper and lower bearing shells of the centre bearing
(No 3) are plain, without an oil groove. The big-end bearing shells
(both upper and lower ones) are also plain.
The oversize bearing shells are thicker for the crankshaft
journals reduced by 0.25 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.75 mm and 1 mm.
Flywheel is cast iron with the pressed-in steel starter ring.
The flywheel centering is ensured by a front input shaft bearing
which is pressed into the crankshaft.
A taper recess on the rear face of the flywheel near the ring
gear is provided as a positioning mark. Adjust it against cylinder
No 4 crankpin.
Inspection and overhaul
Crankshaft. Inspect the crankshaft. Make sure there are no
cracks. Examine the faces which mate the oil seal working edges
for evident cracking, scoring or scuffing.
Mount the crankshaft on two V-blocks as shown in Fig.2-37
and check the run-out with a dial gauge:
• main bearing journals - maximum 0.03 mm;
• mounting surfaces for the input shaft sprocket and bearing
- maximum 0.04 mm;
• surface mating the oil seal - maximum 0.05 mm.
Measure the diameters of the main bearing journals and
24
Fig.2-34. Checking the piston ring-to-groove gap
Fig. 2-35. Checking the piston ring gap
crankpins. Regrind when the wear is in excess of 0.03 mm, ovality
is over 0.03 mm, or when scoring and scuffing is obvious.
Regrind the journals and crankpins through reducing the
diameter to the nearest undersize (Fig.2-36).
When regrinding, observe the sizes for the crankshaft fillet as
shown in Fig.2-36 for the standard-size crankshaft.
The ovality and taper for the main bearing journals and bigend
bearing journals after regrinding must not exceed 0.005 mm.
On a reground crankshaft, the vertical offset of the crankpins
axes must be 0.35 mm (Fig.2-37). To check this, place the crankshaft
on V-blocks and position the crankshaft so that No1
crankpin axis is in the horizontal plane passing through the main
bearing journal axes. Using a dial gauge, check the vertical offset
of crankpins No 2, No 3 and No 4 against crankpin No 1.
After regrinding the journals and crankpins, polish them using
the diamond paste or special grinding pastes.
After regrinding and followed finishing, unplug the oilways,
then machine the plug seats with the mill-cutter Ä.94016/10 and
spindle Ä.94016. Thoroughly wash the crankshaft and oilways to
flush abrasive residuals and blow dry with compressed air.
Use tool Ä.86010 to press in new plugs and punch each plug
in three points with a centre-punch.
On crankshaft web No 1 mark the reduced amount (undersize)
of the main bearing journals and big-end journals (eg. M
0.25; B 0.50).
Bearing shells. Remember that no adjustment on the bearing
shells is allowed. Renew the shells when there are scratches,
scoring or flaking.
The main and big-end bearing running clearance is checked
by measuring the components. It is convenient to check the
clearance with the help of ÇPlastigageÈ (which consists of a fine
thread of perfectly-round plastic, which is compressed between
the bearing cap shell and the crankshaft journal) under the following
procedure:
- ensure the journals and bearing shells are clean and dry,
cut several pieces of the appropriate-size Plastigage (they should
be slightly shorter than the width of the bearings) and place one
piece on each crankshaft journal axis;
- with the bearing shells in position in the cages, fit the caps to
their original locations (depending on the journal checked). Take care
not to disturb the Plastigage. Then tighten the securing nuts and bolts
to the specified torque. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 51 •ì
(5.2 kgf¥m), while the main bearing cap bolts to 80.4 •ì (8.2 kgf•m);
- remove the bearing cap and check the running clearance by
comparing the width of the crushed Plastigage on each journal
with the scale printed on the card gauge to obtain the bearing
running clearance (Fig.2-38).
25
Fig.2-36. Basic crankshaft dimensions
Fig.2-37. Permissible runouts for basic crankshaft surfaces
The nominal design clearance is 0.02-0.07 mm for the
crankpins and 0.026-0.073 mm for the main bearing journal.
When the running clearance is below the maximum value (0.1
mm for the big-end bearing journals and 0.15 mm for the main
bearing journals), the bearing shells can be re-used.
When the running clearance exceeds the specified maximum,
replace the respective bearing shells with new ones.
Where the crankshaft journals are worn and are reground to
their undersize, change the bearing shells to those oversize.
Thrust washers. Similar to the bearing shells, no adjustments
are possible on the thrust washers. Always renew the
thrust washers when there is scoring, scuffing or flaking.
The thrust washers must be renewed when the crankshaft
endfloat exceeds the specified limit of 0.35 mm. Select new thrust
washers of the standard size or 0.127 mm thicker to have the
endfloat within 0.06 - 0.26 mm.
The crankshaft endfloat is checked with the help of a dial
gauge as outlined in Section ÇEngine reassemblyÈ (Fig.2-14).
The crankshaft endfloat can be also checked on the engine in
the vehicle. The axial shift of the crankshaft occurs at depressing
and releasing the clutch pedal, the endfloat value is determined
by the front crankshaft end displacement.
Flywheel. Inspect the teeth of the flywheel starter ring,
should they are found deteriorated, renew the flywheel. If there
are temper colours on flywheel face 3 (Fig.2-39), check the
starter ring interference on the flywheel. The starter ring should
not rotate when applying 590 •ì (60 kgf•m).
Check to see there are no scratches or scores on flywheel
face 1 mating the crankshaft flange or on surface 3 mating the
clutch disc.
Remove by lathing all scratches or scores on face 3, provided
the overall thickness is reduced maximum by 1 mm. Do not
forget to lathe surface 2 maintaining the size (0.5±0.1) mm.
Ensure surfaces 2 and 3 are parallel to surface 1. The out-of-parallelism
tolerance is 0.1 mm.
Mount the flywheel on the tool, centralize is over the mounting
bore against surface 1 and check the run-out of surfaces 2
and 3. The run-out values at the outboard points must not exceed
0.1 mm.
Cylinder head and valve gear
General description
Refer to Fig. 2-40 for basic sizes of the valves, guides and
valve seats.
Cylinder head is an aluminium casting with the pressed-in iron
valve seats and valve guides.
The top of the valve guides is sealed with metal-rubber oil caps
3 (Fig.2-41).
26
Fig.2-38. Measuring the big-end bearing running clearance:
1 - crushed Plastigage; 2 - bearing shell; 3 - big end cap; 4 - scale for clearance
measurement
Fig.2-39. Flywheel:
1 - surface mating the crankshaft flange; 2 - surface for clutch securing; 3 -
clutching surface
The outer diameter of the replacement guides is 0.2 mm bigger.
Bearing housing 5 with camshaft 6 is fitted to the cylinder
head.
Valve train. Valves 2 are operated by the cams through
levers 4. One end of the lever pushes the valve stem, while the
other end rests on the spherical head of adjuster bolt 7 which
adjusts the clearance A in the valve gear.
Valve clearance adjustment
The clearances are adjusted on the cold engine by means of
the chain adequately tensioned. The adjustment should result is
0.15±0.02 mm clearance for the intake valves and 0.2±0.02 mm
clearance for the exhaust valves.
While making adjustments, do not to twist the valve lever,
since it may result in a bigger final clearance.
The clearance is adjusted as follows:
- turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the indentation in the
camshaft sprocket with the mark on the bearing housing, which
corresponds to the end of the compression stroke of the cylinder
No4. Now in this position adjust the clearance at the cylinder No4
exhaust valve (No8 cam) and cylinder No3 intake valve (No6 cam);
- slacken the valve lever adjuster bolt nut;
- between the valve lever and cam place a flat feeler blade
(A.95111) of 0.15 mm for the intake valve (0.2 mm for the exhaust
valve) and using a spanner tighten or slacken the bolt with further
27
Fig.2-40. Basic dimensions of the valves, valve guides and valve seats
Fig.2-41. Cylinder head cross-sectional view showing the exhaust valve:
1 - cylinder head; 2 - valve; 3 - oil cap; 4 - lever; 5 - bearing housing; 6 -
camshaft; 7 - adjuster bolt; 8 - lock nut; Ä - cam-to-lever clearance
lock nut tightening, until the blade is a firm sliding fit when the lock
nut is tightened (Fig.2-42);
- after the clearance is adjusted at the cylinder No4 exhaust
valve and cylinder No3 intake valve, turn the crankshaft progressively
to the 180¡ and adjust the clearances, observing the
sequence as shown in Table 2-2.
Table 2-2
Valve clearance adjustment
Crankshaft angle, Cylinder No Valve (cam) No
degrees (end of compression stroke)
0 4 8 & 6
180 2 4 & 7
360 1 1 & 3
540 3 5 & 2
Cylinder head - removal and refitting
The cylinder head is removed from the engine in the vehicle,
when no complete stripping of the engine is required, or when
carbon deposit
VAZ-21213, VAZ-21214, VAZ-21214-20, VAZ-21215
REPAIR MANUAL
2
Contents
Section 1. General data ..........................................................4
Section 2. Engine ..................................................................7
Engine - removal and refitting..........................................12
Cylinder block ..................................................................19
Inspection and repair..................................................19
Pistons and connecting rods ...........................................21
Selecting piston to cylinder ........................................23
Dismantling and reassembly ......................................23
Crankshaft and flywheel ..................................................24
Design description......................................................24
Inspection and overhaul .............................................24
Cylinder head and valve gear..........................................26
General description ....................................................26
Valve clearance adjustment .......................................27
Cylinder head - removal and refitting .........................28
Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly............28
Camshaft and timing gear ...............................................32
Cooling system ...............................................................34
Lubrication system...........................................................38
Fuel system .....................................................................42
Carburettor.......................................................................46
Exhaust gas recirculation system ....................................55
Exhaust system ...............................................................46
Chapter 3. Power train.........................................................57
Clutch ..............................................................................57
Gearbox...........................................................................64
Transfer box ....................................................................73
Drive line .........................................................................80
Rear axle .........................................................................84
Front axle ........................................................................96
Chapter 4. Wheel suspensions ...........................................100
Front suspension...........................................................102
Rear suspension............................................................110
Chapter 5. Steering ...........................................................115
Steering - inspection, check and adjustment ................116
Steering mechanism......................................................118
Chapter 6 Braking system..................................................121
Front brakes ..................................................................128
Rear brakes...................................................................130
Handbrake.....................................................................134
‘hapter 7. Electrical system...............................................135
Wiring and fuses ...........................................................135
Battery ...........................................................................136
Alternator.......................................................................140
Starter motor .................................................................146
Ignition system ..............................................................149
Lighting and signalling...................................................156
Windscreen wiper/washer .............................................159
Instruments....................................................................163
Chapter 8. Bodywork.........................................................167
Bodywork - repair .........................................................169
Paintwork.......................................................................172
Door...............................................................................176
Bonnet, bumpers...........................................................179
Bodywork glazing and windscreen washers .................180
Instrument panel, seats.................................................181
Heater unit.....................................................................183
Chapter 9. VAZ-21213 vehicle modifications, alternative and additional
equipment...............................................................185
VAZ-21214 vehicle ........................................................185
Engine repair - description ............................................185
Central Injection Unit.....................................................186
VAZ-21214-20 vehicle ...................................................189
Engine 21214-10...........................................................190
VAZ-21215-10 vehicle ...................................................197
Cooling system..............................................................200
Lubrication system ........................................................202
Fuel system ...................................................................202
Exhaust emission system..............................................203
Electrical system ...........................................................203
Steering with BREED «SRS-40»
driver’s airbag in the steering wheel ............................209
Attachments.....................................................................212
Äâòîìîáèëè ‚Ä‡-21213, ‚ć-21214, ‚ć-21214-20, ‚ć-21215
óêîâîäñòâî ïî ðåìîíòó àâòîìîáèëåé
© ƒ……Ä‹œ›‰ „…Ä’ÄŒ…’ ć‚ˆ’ˆŸ Ä/Ž Ä‚’Ž‚ć
© Äâòîðû-ðàçðàáîò÷èêè: ‚îëãèí ‘. ., Šîçëîâ . ‹., Šîñàðåâ ‘. .
© åðåâîä ‡. Äíèñîâîé, ˆ. ‘òàíêîâîé
© Œàêåò-îðèãèíàë èçãîòîâëåí ŠŒ “Ä‚ ÄŽ Ä‚’Ž‚ć. Šîìïüþòåðíàß âÞðñòêà è îôîðìëåíèå - ‚. Äëàåâ, ‚. ˆâêîâ, ‚. Œèòðîôàíîâ. òåë. (8482) 22-54-19.
ˆçä. Ü 0021311
About this manual
This Manual provides information on routine maintenance and servicing and is intended for engineers
and mechanics of service outlets, garages and workshops.
The Manual covers the following models:
VAZ-21213 model - an off-road vehicle, three-door body of all-steel unitary construction,
with 1.7 litre carburettor engine;
VAZ-21214 model - with 1.7 litre Central Fuel Injection Engine;
VAZ-21214-20 model - with 1.7 litre Sequential Fuel Injection Engine;
VAZ-21215 model - with Turbo Diesel Engine.
The chapters of the manual give full descriptions of VAZ-21213 vehicle units. For general description,
service and repair procedures applicable to other models, refer to Section 9 where you can also find the
information on additional and alternative equipment fitted to the vehicles.
The Manual provides a detailed description of service operations on the base of OEM parts, with helpful
information on fault diagnosis, along with clear indications on removal and refitting, dismantling and
reassembly, adjustment and repair of various vehicle units.
We recommend to use special tools and working facilities as listed in Attachment No 2. Tighten the
thread connections to torques specified in Attachment No 1. Basic adjustments and inspection checks are
outlined in Attachment No 3. Refer to Attachment 4 for recommended lubricants and fuels.
Due to the on-going process of vehicle improvement aimed to enhance the VAZ vehicle reliability and
performance, the manufacturer can make alterations and design changes which may fail to enter this publication.
Such changes and alterations will be incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity.
The Manual describes the vehicle design as of October 1999.
3
Section 1. General Data
Table 1-1
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION
Features VAZ-21213 VAZ-21214 VAZ-21214-20 VAZ-21215
General
Number of seats 5 5 5 5
Kerb weight, kg 1210 1210 1210 1240
Payload, kg 400 400 400 400
Overall dimensions Fig.1-1
Maximum braking distance at GVW and 80 km/h
on horizontal dry flat asphalt road, not greater, meters:
¥ with service braking system applied 40 40 40 40
¥ with emergency system applied (either of two service braking circuits) 90 90 90 90
Maximum speed* in top gear, km/h:
¥ with driver and passenger 137 137 137 130
¥ at full load 135 135 135 128
Acceleration time*, 0 to 100 km/h through gear shifting, seconds:
¥ with driver and passenger 19 19 19 22
¥ at full load 21 21 21 24
Engine
Model 21213 21214 21214-10 DHW (XUD-9SD)
Type Four-stroke, Four-stroke, Four-stroke, Four-stroke,
petrol, carburettor petrol, CFI petrol, sequential injection turbo diesel
No of cylinders four in-line four in-line four in-line four in-line
Bore x stroke, mm 82õ80 82õ80 82õ80 83õ88
Capacity, litre 1.69 1.69 1.69 1.905
Compression ratio 9.3:1 9.3:1 9.3:1 21.5:1
Maximum power:
as per GOST 14846 (net), at least, êW (h.p.) 58 (78.9) 58 (78.9) 58.5 (79.6) 55 (74.8)
as per ISO 1585, êW 58 58 58.5 55
Maximum crankshaft speed at maximum power, rpm 5200 5400 5000 4600
Firing order 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2
____________________________________
* Measured using a special procedure
4
Features VAZ-21213 VAZ-21214 VAZ-21214-20 VAZ-21215
Power train
Clutch single dry plate, diaphragm spring
Clutch release mechanism hydraulic, servo spring
Transmission 5-speed, synchro units on all forward gears
Gear ratio:
¥ first gear 3.67 3.67 3.67 3.67
¥ second gear 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10
¥ third gear 1.36 1.36 1.36 1.36
¥ fourth gear 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
¥ fifth gear 0.82 0.82 0.82 0.82
¥ reverse gear 3.53 3.53 3.53 3.53
Transfer case two-gear, lockup differential
Gear ratio:
¥ top gear 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
¥ bottom gear 2.135 2.135 2.135 2.135
Transfer case differential bevel gears, two pinion gears
Drive line:
¥ from transmission to transfer case flexible coupling and CV joints
¥ from transfer case to front and rear axles two universal joints on needle bearings with grease nipples and yokes
¥ from front axle to wheels open, with CV joints
Final drive ratio, front and rear axles bevel, hypoid
¥ gear ratio 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9
¥ differential bevel, two pinion gears
Suspension and wheels
Front suspension independent, lower track control arms (wishbones), coil springs,
hydraulic telescopic shock-absorbers, anti-roll bar
Rear suspension rigid axle beam with Panhard rod and four trailing arms,
coil springs/hydraulic telescopic shock-absorbers
Wheels pressed-steel disc
¥ wheel rim 127J x 406 (5J x 16)
Tyres tubed, cross-ply or radial ply
size:
¥ cross-ply tyres 175 x 406 (6.95 x16),
¥ radial-ply tyres 175/80R16
5
Features VAZ-21213 VAZ-21214 VAZ-21214-20 VAZ-21215
Steering
Steering mechanism globoidal worm, double-crest roller, steering ratio 16.4
Steering linkage three links, relay rod and two steering rods,
drop arm, idler arm and swing arms
Braking system
Service braking system:
¥ front brakes disc-type, floating caliper, automatic disc-to-pad clearance adjustment
¥ rear brakes drum-type, self-applying shoes and automatic shoe-to-drum clearance adjustment
¥ brake operation line foot-type, hydraulic, dual circuit, split diagonally, vacuum servo unit and pressure regulator
Handbrake cable-operated on rear wheels
Electrical system
Wiring diagram single-wire, negative earth type
Voltage, volts 12
Battery 6‘’-55Ä, 55 ampere-hour
Alternator AC, integral diode plate and electronic voltage regulator
Starter motor pre-engaged, solenoid switch and overrun clutch
Body
Type all-steel unitary construction, monocoque, three-door, double-space
6
Fig.1-1. Basic overall dimensions of VAZ-21213 vehicle
Section 2. Engine
Refer to Fig.2-1 and Fig.2-2 for front and side sectional views of the engine.
7
Fig.2-1. Side sectional view of the engine
8
Fig.2-2. Front sectional view of the engine
Fault diagnosis
Symptom/fault Remedy
Engine fails to start
1. No fuel to carburettor:
- blocked fuel pipes or fuel filter;
- clogged carburettor or fuel pump filters;
- faulty fuel pump
2. Ignition system fault
3. Carburettor fuel cutoff solenoid fails to open at ignition switch-on:
- disconnected, loose or broken wiring to solenoid or solenoid control
unit;
- faulty solenoid control unit;
- defective fuel cutoff solenoid
4. Carburettor choke not opening at first flashes in cylinders
Engine idles erratically or stalls
1. Incorrectly adjusted idle speed
2. Defective carburettor solenoid control system
3. Faulty carburettor:
- blocked carburettor jets or internal passages;
- water in carburettor;
- broken choke control diaphragm
4. Ignition system fault
5. Vacuum leak through damaged hose between intake pipe and brake
servo unit
6. Air leak through gaskets at connections between intake pipe and carburettor/
cylinder head
7. Leaking distributor vacuum pipe
Engine lacks power and has poor acceleration
1. Partly open throttle
2. Choked air cleaner element
3. Ignition system fault
4. Faulty fuel pump
5. Faulty carburettor:
- faulty accelerator pump;
- blocked main jets;
- partly open choke;
- low fuel level in float chamber;
- leaky throttle enrichment diaphragm
6. Restricted fuel tank vent pipe
7. Incorrect valve clearances
8. Misaligned timing marks
9. Insufficient cylinder compression - below 1 ŒPà (10 kgf/ñm2):
- broken or sticking piston rings;
- poor valve-to-seat fitting;
- excessively worn cylinders or piston rings
9
1. Carry out the following operations:
- blow fuel pipes, clean fuel tank, renew fuel filter;
- clean filters;
- check pump operation and renew any damaged components
2. Refer to section ÇIgnition systemÈ
3. Carry out the following:
- check wiring and connections, renew damaged wires;
- renew control unit;
- replace solenoid with a new one
4. Eliminate any leakage of choke pull-down unit
1. Adjust idle speed
2. Refer to ÇEngine fails to startÈ
3. Carry out the following:
- blow carburettor jets and internal passages;
- remove water from carburettor, drain sludge from fuel tank;
- fit new diagram
4. Refer to section ÇIgnition systemÈ
5. Replace damaged hose
6. Tighten retaining nuts or renew gaskets; eliminate carburettor flange
deformation or fit new carburettor
7. Fit new pipe in place of damaged one
1. Adjust throttle linkage
2. Change filter element
3. Refer to section ÇIgnition systemÈ
4. Check pump operation and renew any damaged components
5. Carry out the following:
- check pump operation, renew damaged parts;
- blow jets with compressed air;
- adjust choke operation;
- adjust float;
- replace diaphragm
6. Blow pipe with compressed air
7. Adjust valve clearances
8. Adjust timing belt accordingly, align timing marks
9. Carry out the following:
- clean piston rings or grooves from carbon deposits, renew damaged components;
- replace damaged valves, regrind valve seats;
- replace pistons, rebore and hone cylinders.
Main bearing knocking
Typical knocking or thumping noticeable at sudden throttle opening at idle which intensifies with higher crankshaft rate. Excessive endfloat
of crankshaft causes sharper irregular knocking, especially noticeable during smooth increase or decrease in crankshaft speed.
1. Early ignition
2. Insufficient pressure oil
3. Loose flywheel securing bolts
4. Excessive main bearing running clearance
5. Excessive thrust washers-to-crankshaft clearance
Big-end bearing knocking
Big-end bearing knocking is sharper than that of main bearings. It is noticeable during engine idle at sudden throttle opening. The origin of
knocking can be easily identified through switching off spark plugs one at a time.
1. Insufficient oil pressure
2. Excessive big-end bearing running clearance
Piston slap
Thumping noise caused by piston ÇrunoutÈ in cylinder. Most noticeable at low crankshaft speed and under load.
1. Excessive piston-to-cylinder bore clearance
2. Excessive gudgeon pin-to-piston groove clearance
Knocking of intake or exhaust valves
Excessive valve clearances cause typical regular noise; its frequency is lower than the frequency of any other engine noise, since the valves
are operated by camshaft rotating at half the crankshaft speed.
1. Excessive valve clearances
2. Broken valve spring
3. Excessive valve-to-guide clearance
4. Worn camshaft lobes
5. Loose locknut of adjuster bolt
Excessive noise of camshaft operation line
Noise from camshaft operation line is caused by clearances between engagement elements and becomes noticeable in general engine noise
at low crankshaft speed.
1. Loose chain caused by general wear
2. Broken chain tensioner shoe or damper
3. Seized chain tensioner plunger rod
Insufficient oil pressure at warm engine idle
1. Foreign particles entrapped under oil pump relief valve
2. Seized oil pressure relief valve
3. Worn oil pump gears
4. Excessive main bearing running clearance
5. Excessive camshaft bearing journal-to-bearing housing clearance
6. Incorrect oil grade or inappropriate oil quality
Excessive oil pressure on warm engine
1. Seized oil pressure relief valve
2. Excessively tough spring of oil pressure relief valve
10
1. Adjust ignition timing
2. Refer to subsection ÇInsufficient oil pressure at idleÈ
3. Tighten bolts to torque specified
4. Grind journals and renew bearing shells
5. Fit new thrust washers, check clearance
1. Renew valve
2. Renew spring
1. Refer to ÇInsufficient oil pressure at idleÈ
2. Fit new bearing shells and regrind journals
1. Adjust clearances
2. Renew spring
3. Replace worn parts
4. Renew camshaft and levers
5. Adjust clearance between lever and cam, tighten locknut
1. Renew pistons, rebore and hone cylinders
2. Fit new rings or new pistons with rings
1. Tighten chain
2. Renew tensioner shoe or damper
3. Eliminate seizure
1. Clean valve from foreign particles and flash, clean oil pump
2. Renew valve
3. Repair oil pump
4. Turn journals and renew bearing shells
5. Renew camshaft or bearing housing
6. Change oil as recommended in Attachment 4
Excessive oil consumption
1. Oil leaking through engine gaskets
2. Restricted crankcase ventilation system
3. Worn piston rings
4. Broken piston rings
5. Foul windows of oil scraper rings or foul slots in piston grooves due to
wrong oil
6. Worn or damaged valve oil caps
7. Badly worn valve stems or guides
Excessive fuel consumption
1. Choke not fully opened
2. Excessive resistance to vehicle motion
3. Incorrect ignition timing
4. Defective distributor vacuum unit
5. High fuel level in carburettor:
- leaking needle valve or its gasket;
- seizure or excessive friction hindering normal float operation
6. Choked carburettor air jets
7. Leaking part throttle enrichment diaphragm
8. Carburettor solenoid failed to shut off fuel at overrun:
- no earthing of idle switch sliding contact;
- broken wire between control module and carburettor idle switch;
- faulty control module
Engine overheating
Coolant temperature gauge needle is in the red sector. Start tracing the failure with checking coolant temperature gauge and its sender (Refer
to section ÇInstrumentationÈ).
1. Slackened pump and alternator drive belt
2. Insufficient coolant in system
3. Incorrect ignition timing
4. Dirty radiator outside
5. Defective thermostat
6. Faulty radiator cap inlet valve (opening pressure is below 0.07 MPa
(0.7 kgf/cm2)
7. Defective coolant pump
Sudden coolant drop in expansion tank
1. Damaged radiator
2. Damaged cooling hoses or pipe gaskets, loose clips
3. Leaking heater tap or heater matrix
4. Leaking water pump seal
5. Damaged radiator cap or cap seal
6. Defective cylinder head gasket
7. Leaks from fissures in cylinder block or cylinder head
8. Leaks from fissures in water pump housing, water jacket return pipe,
thermostat, expansion tank or intake pipe
11
1. Tighten fittings or replace gaskets and oil seals
2. Wash components of crankcase ventilation system
3. Rebore and renew pistons and rings
4. Renew rings
5. Clean windows and slots of carbon, change motor oil as recommended in
Attachment 4
6. Renew oil caps
7. Renew valves, repair cylinder head
1. Adjust choke linkage
2. Check and adjust pressures in tyres, braking system, wheel alignment
3. Adjust ignition timing
4. Renew vacuum unit or ignition distributor
5. Carry out the following:
- check for any foreign matter entrapped between needle and valve seat;
renew valve or gasket as applicable;
- check and when necessary replace floats
6. Clean jets
7. Replace diaphragm
8. Following to be done:
- clean solenoid contact surfaces;
- check wiring and connections, renew damaged wire;
- renew control unit
1. Adjust drive belt tension
2. Top up coolant to cooling system
3. Adjust ignition timing
4. Clean radiator outside with water jet
5. Renew thermostat
6. Renew cap
7. Check pump operation, renew or repair pump
1. Repair or renew radiator
2. Renew damaged hoses or gaskets, tighten hose clips
3. Renew tap or heater matrix
4. Renew seal
5. Renew cap
6. Renew gasket
7. Check cylinder block and cylinder head for leakage; renew damaged components
in case of evident cracking
8. Check for leaks; renew components in case of fissures; minor leaks can
be cured by adding a radiator sealant such as ˆˆ‘‘-1
Engine - removal and refitting
Put the vehicle on a lift or over an inspection pit and apply the
handbrake. Take out the spare wheel and its supporting pipe.
Disconnect the battery leads and withdraw the battery. Unbolt
and remove the bonnet.
To remove the air cleaner, disconnect its hoses, remove the
cover and filter element. Temporarily plug the carburettor.
Disconnect the throttle linkage and choke cable.
Disconnect the wires from the fuel cutoff solenoid, idle switch,
oil pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, ignition distributor,
alternator and starter motor.
Drain coolant from the radiator, cylinder head and heater unit.
To do this, shift the heater tap control lever to the right, undo the
caps on the cylinder block left side and radiator right-hand fluid
cooler, screw instead the return hoses connectors, then undo the
caps of the expansion tank and radiator.
Separate the fan cowl halves and remove the fan blower
cowl. Disconnect the coolant supply and return hoses from the
engine. Undo two bolts retaining the radiator to the body, release
the top catch of the fan cowl, move the top radiator toward the
engine and withdraw the radiator from the engine bay complete
with the thermostat and associated hoses. Remove the fan cowl.
Undo the nuts holding the downpipe to exhaust manifold.
Detach the downpipe from the bracket on the transmission and
lower it down.
Slacken the clips, disconnect the hoses from the fuel pump and
secure the pump in the position that excludes any fuel leakage.
Detach the fuel return hose from the carburettor.
Release the clips and disconnect the hoses from the heater
manifolds, detach the brake servo hose from the intake pipe.
Use socket spanner 02.7812.9500 to unbolt the starter motor
from the clutch housing. Undo the bolts holding the clutch housing
cover to the lower clutch. Using Ä.55035 undo the clutch bellhousing
to the cylinder block.
Hoist the beam ’‘Ž-3/379 and secure the engine right side
to the lifting yoke at the front exhaust manifold stud, while the left
side shall be secured through the clutch housing mounting hole.
Slightly tension the hoist, undo the nuts that retain front
engine mounting rubbers 3 (Fig.2-3) to the side brackets, undo
the nut and bolt holding the front axle housing to the engine
brackets. Disconnect the engine negative lead.
Lift out the engine, first raise its top in order to take the bolts
of the mounting rubber out of the bracket holes, then move the
engine forward in order to release the input shaft from the bearing
in the crankshaft flange.
12
Fig. 2-3. Engine mounting unit:
1 - right-hand support bracket with rubber; 2 - left-hand support bracket; 3 - mounting rubber; 4 - cross-piece, rear mounting; 5 - bracket with rear mounting
Remove the starter motor heat shield, followed by the starter
motor, hot air intake complete with the supply hose. Remove from
the cylinder head two side brackets together with the front engine
mounting rubbers.
Unbolt the clutch and withdraw it.
Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. Draw special
attention to the engine-to-transmission connection: the input shaft
must precisely engage the clutch disc splines. Furthermore, for
perfect engine/transfer box centering, the centering washers of
the front engine mounting rubbers must be in the respective side
brackets holes.
Engine - dismantling
Flush the engine, mount it on a stand for dismantling and
drain the oil sump.
Remove the carburettor, for that disconnect the hoses and
throttle operating rod.
Remove the fuel pump and ignition distributor. Use spanner
67.7812.9514 to unscrew the spark plugs and coolant temperature
sensor.
Remove the alternator and water pump drivebelt. Remove the
alternator and its retaining bracket.
On the pump and exhaust manifold disconnect the coolant
supply pipe from the heater.
From the pump and exhaust manifold disconnect the coolant
supply pipe from the heater.
Use tool Ä.60312 to undo the oil filter with seal, remove the
oil filter and seal (Fig.2-4).
Unscrew the oil pressure warning lamp sender. Remove the
crankcase vent breather cover, crankcase and oil pump. Remove
the oil separator drain pipe catch and take out the oil separator.
To remove the crankshaft pulley, secure the flywheel using
Ä.60330/R (Fig. 2-10) and undo the nut using tool Ä.5012 (Fig. 2-
5). Withdraw the valve cover and timing cover. Unbolt the
camshaft and oil pump drive shaft sprockets.
Slacken chain tensioner cap nut 6 (Fig.2-6), undo nut 4 holding
it to the cylinder head, remove the tensioner; then unbolt and
remove chain tensioner shoe 3.
Undo the chain stop pin, remove the oil pump and camshaft
sprockets, then take off the chain.
Loosen studs 4 nuts (Fig. 2-7). Remove the camshaft bearing
housing. Undo studs 4 nuts, remove thrust flange 1 and withdraw
the camshaft exercising maximum care not to damage the
camshaft bearing housing surface.
Unbolt the cylinder head and withdraw it complete with the
exhaust manifold and intake pipe.
13
Fig.2-4. Removing the oil filter using tool Ä.60312 Fig.2-5. Releasing the crankshaft nut using tool Ä.50121
Fig.2-6. Removing the chain tensioner and damper:
1 - camshaft timing chain; 2 - shoe retaining bolt; 3 - tensioner chain; 4 - tensioner
retainer nut; 5 - tensioner housing; 6 - tensioner cap nut; 7 - chain
damper securing bolts; 8 - oil pump shaft sprocket retaining bolt
Remove thrust flange 1 (Fig.2-8) of the oil pump drive shaft
and take the shaft out of the cylinder block.
Using picker Ä.40005/1/7 (kit Ä.40005) drive the sprocket off
the crankshaft (Fig.2-9).
Undo the connecting rod bolts, remove the big end cap and
carefully lift the pistons with the conrods through the cylinders.
Mark the piston, connecting rod, main and big-end bearing shells
for position to facilitate the reassembly.
WARNING. When removing the pistons and conrods, do
not press out the connecting rod bolts.
Fit tool 5 (Fig.2-10), undo bolts 3, remove washer 4 and the
flywheel from the crankshaft. Remove the front clutch housing
cover.
Using tool Ä.40006, take the input shaft bearing out from the
crankshaft (Fig.2-11).
Remove the crankshaft oil seal retainer.
Unbolt the main bearing cap bolts, remove them complete
with the lower bearing shells, then lift out the crankshaft, top
bearing shells and rear bearing thrust washers.
Engine - reassembly
Follow the engine reassembly procedure as below:
Locate a clean cylinder block and screw in any missing dowels.
Oil the crankshaft bearing shells, thrust washers, pistons and
oil seals. Always fit new crankshaft oil seals when reassembling
the engine after overhaul.
14
Fig.2-7. Removing the camshaft thrust flange:
1 - thrust flange; 2 - camshaft; 3 - bearing housing; 4 - thrust flange securing
stud
Fig.2-8. Removing the oil pump shaft:
1 - thrust flange; 2 - flange securing bolt; 3 - oil pump shaft; 4 - wrench
Fig.2-10. Removing the flywheel:
1 - wrench; 2 - flywheel; 3 - flywheel securing bolt; 4 - washer; 5 - tool
Ä.60330/R to lock the flywheel stationary; 6 - front clutch housing cover
Fig. 2-9. Removing the crankshaft sprocket using a picker
Fit the centre main bearing shells without an oilway into the
bearing recesses. Fit into other cylinder bores the bearing shells
with an oilway, while into the relevant main bearing caps - the
bearing shells without an oilway. Lower the crankshaft into position,
then stick two thrust washers into the rear bearing recesses
(Fig.2-12).
WARNING. The washers must be fitted so that their oilways
face away from the bearings in the block and cap (antifriction
coat is applied on the washer surface). At the rear of
the rear main bearing there fitted a sintered thrust washer
(yellow), while at the front - a steel-aluminium thrust washer.
Locate the main bearing caps according to the marks on their
outer surface (Fig.2-13). Tighten the cap securing bolts.
Check the crankshaft endfloat. To do this, turn the cylinder
block to have the rear side up and position the dial gauge foot
against the crankshaft flange (Refer to Fig.2-14). Moving the
crankshaft up and down (using screwdrivers, for instance), check
the crankshaft endfloat to be within 0.06-0.26 ìì. If not, adjust
accordingly and replace the old thrust washers with new ones or
fit thicker thrust washers.
Locate the rear oil seal housing gasket on the crankshaft
flange, insert the front clutch housing cover bolts into the respective
bores (Fig.2-15). Place the oil seal housing on tool
41.7853.4011 and slide it to on the crankshaft flange; next secure
it to the cylinder block with the bolts.
Locate front clutch housing cover 6 (Fig.2-10) over two centering
pins (Fig. 2-16). Secure the cover to the rear oil seal housing
with nuts.
15
Fig.2-11. Pressing out the bearing from the crankshaft using tool A.40006 Fig. 2-12. Refitting the thrust washers to the rear mounting
Fig.2-13. Marks on the main bearing caps (bearing are numbered from the
engine front end)
Fig.2-14. Checking the crankshaft endfloat
Locate the flywheel in position so that the marking (a cut-out)
near the rim is against the No 4 cylinder crankpin axis. While
holding the flywheel stationary with tool Ä.60330/R, bolt it to the
crankshaft flange to the specified torque.
Using a ring compressor (tool 67.8125.9502), fit the pistons
and connecting rods to the cylinders (Fig.2-17).
WARNING. The hole for gudgeon pin in the piston is 1.2
mm set off, so the arrows on the piston crown must face the
timing belt end of the engine when inserting the pistons into
the cylinders.
Press the big-end bearing shells into the connecting rods and
caps. Guide the conrods and big-end caps onto the crankshaft
journal, then tighten the connecting rod bolts. The big-end caps
must be positioned so that the cylinder number on the cap is
against the cylinder number on the connecting rod big-end.
Refit the crankshaft sprocket. Locate the oil pump shaft and
secure it with the thrust flange.
Insert two centering pins into the cylinder block (Fig.2-17) and
locate the cylinder head gasket over them.
WARNING. Always fit the new cylinder head gasket.
Never re-use the old gasket.
Before refitting the gasket, remove any oil from the mating
surfaces of the block and cylinder head. Make sure the
gasket is perfectly clean and dry. Avoid any incidental oiling
of the gasket.
Turn the crankshaft so that the pistons are midway in the
cylinder bore.
Refit the cylinder head complete with the valves, exhaust
manifold and intake pipe over the centering pins.
Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the established procedure
(Fig.2-18) in four steps to ensure a reliable fit and exclude further
tightening during vehicle servicing.
1st step - tighten the bolts 1-10 to 20 N¥m(2 kgf¥m);
2nd step - tighten the bolts 1-10 to 69.4-85.7 N¥m
(7.1-8.7 kgf¥m), while the bolt 11 to 31.36 -
39.1 N¥m (3.2-3.99 kgf¥m);
3rd step - turn the bolts 1-10 to 90¡;
4th step - turn again all bolts 1-10 to further 90¡.
WARNING. The cylinder head bolts can be re-used only
when their length is not in excess of 120 mm, otherwise
renew the bolt.
Before reassembly, immerse the bolts, thread and head,
into engine oil. Allow the excess oil drip for at least 30 minutes.
Remove all entrapped oil from the bolt bores in the
cylinder head.
16
Fig.2-15. Crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
The lugs (arrowed) for centering the housing against the crankshaft flange
Fig.2-17. Fitting the pistons complete with piston rings using ring compressor;
centering pins of the cylinder head (arrowed)
Fig.2-16. Clutch dowels (arrowed black) and clutch housing centering
pins (arrowed white)
Turn the flywheel so that the mark on the crankshaft sprocket
is against the cylinder block mark (Fig.2-19).
Check to see the camshaft bearing housing centering pins
are in position (Fig.2-20). Refit the sprocket to the camshaft complete
with the bearing housing and turn the camshaft so that the
timing mark in the sprocket is aligned against the mark on the
bearing housing (Fig.2-21). Remove the sprocket and without
changing the camshaft position, refit the bearing housing to the
cylinder head so that the centering pins are in the respective
bores of the bearing housing. Secure the bearing housing, tightening
the nuts in the sequence as shown in Fig.2-22.
Refit the chain vibration damper.
Refit the camshaft timing chain:
- fit the chain onto the camshaft sprocket and position the
sprocket so its TDC mark is aligned with the respective mark on
the bearing housing (Fig.2-21). Do not tighten the sprocket bolt
fully;
- fit the sprocket to the oil pump shaft, but do not tighten the
retaining bolt fully;
- fit the chain tensioner shoe and tensioner, but do not tighten
the cap nut so that the tensioner spring can compress the
shoe; screw the chain stop pin into the cylinder block;
- turn the crankshaft two turns forward to ensure the chain
tension required; check the indentations in the sprockets are
aligned with TDC marks in the cylinder block and bearing housing
(Fig.2-19 and Fig.2-21);
- when the marks are aligned, hold the flywheel stationary
with tool Ä.60330/R (Fig.2-10), then tighten the sprocket securing
bolts and chain tensioner cap nut to the torques specified, bend
the sprocket bolt lock washers; should the marks are not aligned,
repeat the chain refitting procedure.
17
Fig. 2-18. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
Fig. 2-19. Aligning the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and cylinder
block
Fig.2-20. Centering pins for camshaft bearing housing
Fig.2-21. Aligning the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket against bearing
housing mark:
1 - mark in sprocket; 2 - mark on bearing housing
Adjust the clearance between the camshaft lobes and valve
levers.
Refit the camshaft cover (Fig.2-23) complete with the gasket
and oil seal to the cylinder block, do not tighten the retaining bolts
and nuts fully. Using tool 41.7853.4010 centralize the cover
against the crankshaft end, then tighten the retaining nuts and
bolts to the torques specified.
Fit the alternator and oil pump pulley, then secure it with the
nut.
Fit the oil filter complete with the gasket, manually screw it to
the union on the cylinder block. Refit the crankcase vent oil separator,
breather cover and secure the oil separator drain pipe with
the clip.
Fit oil pump 1(Fig.2-24), then fit the oil sump with the gasket.
Fit the coolant pump, alternator bracket and alternator. Fit the
belt around the pulleys and adjust the belt tension.
Fit the heater matrix supply pipe and cooling water jacket outlet
pipe to the cylinder block. Secure the heater matrix drain pipe
to the coolant pump and outlet pipe.
Fit the instrumentation sensors.
Fit the oil pump / distributor gear, followed by the ignition distributor.
Insert the spark plugs, place spanner 67.7812.9515 on
the spark plugs and tighten the spark plugs with a torque wrench
to the torques specified.
Fit the fuel pump as outlined in section ÇFuel systemÈ.
Fit the carburettor and reconnect the hoses. Cover the carburettor
with a provisional cap.
WARNING. Never secure the carburettor (or tighten its
retaining nuts) when it is warm.
Fit the valve cover complete with the gasket and fuel piping
bracket.
Fit the air cleaner, to do this secure the hoses to the air cleaner
housing, fit the filter housing complete with the gasket to the
carburettor, then fit the mounting plate and secure the housing
with nuts. Locate the filter element and secure the air cleaner
cover.
Reconnect the HT leads to the distributor and spark plugs.
Fill the engine with motor oil through the oil filler in the valve
cover.
18
Fig.2-22. Camshaft bearing housing nuts tightening sequence
Fig.2-24. Refitting the oil pump:
1 - oil pump; 2 - drain pipe lock; 3 - oil separator drain pipe
Fig.2-23. Timing cover
Projections (arrowed) for cover centering against crankshaft pulley hub
Engine run-in after overhaul
After overhaul the engine is bench tested (run-in) at no loads
under the following cycle:
750-800 rpm 2 minutes
1000 rpm 3 minutes
1500 rpm 4 minutes
2000 rpm 5 minutes
Locate the engine on the test bench, start the engine and
make checks with respect to the following items:
- evidence of coolant or fuel leaks through mating components,
pipe connections or gaskets;
- oil pressure and oil leaks through gaskets;
- ignition timing;
- idle speed;
- carburettor / intake pipe tightness;
- abnormal knock.
In case of any malfunctions or unknown rattle, stop the
engine, eliminate the faults, then continue the tests.
In case of oil leaks through the gasket between the valve
cover and cylinder head or through the gaskets between the oil
sump, cylinder block and covers, tighten the securing bolts to the
torque specified. If oil leaks persist, check the correct fitting of the
gaskets and renew when applicable.
Since the overhauled engine is not fully bed-in and frictions
between the working surfaces of renewed parts show significant
resistance to the rotation, a certain run-in period is required.
This especially concerns those engines, where the pistons,
main / big-end bearing shells have been renewed, or the crankshaft
journals have been reground, or the cylinders - honed.
Therefore during run-in after the engine overhaul, never allow
the engine to run at maximum loads. When in the vehicle, always
run-in the engine at the speeds which are recommended for the
run-in periods.
In-vehicle engine inspection after overhaul
Locate the engine in the vehicle, thoroughly check its correct
mounting.
Run the engine for a while, then check for:
- coolant or fuel leaks through pipe connections, tighten when
necessary;
- full throttle opening and closing by the carburettor cable,
adjust accordingly, if necessary;
- alternator drivebelt tension, adjust, when applicable;
- reliable wiring connections and operation of the warning
lamps in the instrument cluster.
WARNING. Never check the engine or vehicle on the
roller stand without additional rollers for the front wheels.
Cylinder block
General description
The cylinder block basic sizes are shown in Fig.2-25.
The cylinder block is of a low-alloyed cast iron. The cylinder
bores are of five classes in steps of 0.01 mm and are designated
by the letters A, B, ‘, D, …. The cylinder class is engraved on the
cylinder block bottom face. (Fig.2-26).
The cylinders can be rebored to accommodate the oversize
pistons of 0.4 mm and 0.8 mm bigger diameters.
The main bearing caps are machined complete with the cylinder
block; therefore they are not interchangeable and feature distinctive
notches on the outside surface (Fig.2-13).
Inspection and repair
Inspection. Wash the cylinder block thoroughly and clear the oilways.
Blow dry with compressed air and inspect the cylinder
block visually. Make sure there are no cracks in the mountings or
elsewhere in the cylinder block.
When cooling water is suspected in the crankcase, use a
special test bench to examine the cylinder block for leaks. To do
this, plug the cylinder block cooling water jacket ports, force in
some room temperature water at 0.3 MPa (3 kgf/sq.cm). There
should be no evidence of water leaks from the cylinder block within
2 minutes.
When coolant is found contaminated with oil, do not strip the
engine completely, rather check the cylinder block for cracks in
the area of the oilways. For that, drain the coolant from the cooling
system, remove the cylinder head, refill the cylinder block
water jacket with water and apply compressed air to the vertical
oilway in the cylinder. If there are any bubbles in the water of the
cooling water jacket, renew the cylinder block.
Examine the split face between the cylinder block and cylinder
head using a straight-edge and feeler blades. Position the
straight-edge diagonally and using a feeler gauge measure at the
centre, both transversely and longitudinally. The flatness to be
within 0.1 mm tolerance.
Cylinder repair. Check the cylinders for wear to be maximum
0.15 mm.
When available, use a dial inside gauge to measure the bore
diameter (Fig.2-27) in four lands, both longitudinally and transversely
(Fig.2-28). Use tool 67.8125.9502 to set the inside gauge
to zero.
19
20
Fig.2-26. Cylinder size class engraved on the cylinder block
Fig.2-27. Measuring the cylinder bore with the inside dial gauge:
1 - inside dial gauge; 2 - setting to zero against reference gauge
Fig.2-25. Basic sizes of the cylinder block
There is practically no wear in the land 1 area of the cylinders.
Compare the values measured on the first and other cylinder
lands to see the amount of the cylinder wear.
When the maximum wear is over 0.15 mm, rebore the cylinders
to the nearest oversize; provide 0.03 mm honing allowance
on the diameter. Hone the cylinder walls so that the difference
between the oversize piston diameter and cylinder bore is 0.025
- 0.045 mm.
Pistons and connecting rods
General Description
The basic sizes of the pistons and connecting rods are
shown in Fig.2-29.
Piston is an aluminium casting. The piston weight is
precisely maintained during the manufacturing process.
Consequently, there is no need to select the matching piston of
the same weight class during the engine assembly.
There are five classes (Ä, ‚, ‘, D, …) of the piston according
to their major diameter, in steps of 0.01 mm. The piston has a
complex outside shape: tapered in height and oval in the crosssection
area. Therefore, the piston diameter must be measured
in the plane normal to the gudgeon pin at 55 mm from the piston
crown.
There are three classes (1, 2, 3) of pistons, as to the hole for
the gudgeon pin, in step of 0.004 mm. The classes of piston
diameters and holes for the gudgeon pin are stamped on the piston
crown (Fig.2-30).
The oversize piston major diameter is 0.4 or 0.8 mm bigger.
The 0.4 step is marked in the form of a triangle, while the 0.8 mm
step is marked as a square.
Use the arrow on the piston crown for correct piston orientation
and fitting within the cylinder. The arrow of the piston must
face the timing belt end of the engine.
Gudgeon pin is of steel, hollow, floating-type, i.e. freely
operates in the piston bosses and connecting rod bush. The gudgeon
pin is secured in the hole with two circlips.
As to the outside diameter the gudgeon pin are of three
classes in step of 0.004 mm. The class is paint marked on the
gudgeon pin face: 1st class - blue paint, 2nd class - green paint,
3rd class - red paint.
Piston rings are of cast iron. The top compression ring has
a chromed barrel face. The bottom compression ring is of the
scraper type. The oil control piston ring features chromed working
edges and has a coil expander (spreader ring).
The oversize rings are marked as 40 or 80, which corresponds
respectively to 0.4 or 0.8 mm step in the major diameter.
Connecting rod is of forged steel.The connecting rod is
machined together with the big end cap, therefore they are interrelated.
The cylinder number (6 in Fig.2-30) is stamped on the
caps and connecting rods to prevent confusion when refitting into
the cylinders. During reassembly the figures on the connecting
rod and cap should face the same side.
21
Fig.2-28. Measuring the cylinder bore:
A and B - direction of measurement; 1, 2, 3 and 4 - No of lands
Fig.2-29. Basic dimensions of pistons and connecting rods
The connecting rod small-end features a pressed-in steelbronze
bush. As to the diameter of the bush, the connecting rods
are divided into three classes in steps of 0.004 mm (similar to the
pistons).
The class number (5 in Fig.2-30) is engraved on the big-end
cap.
The connecting rod small-end and big-end are classified
weight-wise (Table 2-1) and are paint marked on the connecting
rod. The engine must always be fitted with the connecting rods of
the same weight class. The connecting rod weight can be adjusted
by removing excess metal from the bosses on the small-end
or big-end up to the minimum size of 16.5 mm or 35.5 mm (Fig.2-
31).
22
Fig.2-30. Marking on the piston and connecting rod:
1 - arrow on piston crown for orientation in cylinder; 2 - oversize; 3 - piston class;
4 - class of gudgeon pin hole; 5 - connecting rod class as to gudgeon pin hole;
6 - cylinder No
Fig.2-31. Locations of possible metal removal subject to adjusted connecting
rod small-end and big-end weights
Table 2-1
Connecting rod classification as to
small-end and big-end weights
Connecting rod weight, g Class Paint mark
small-end big-end
519±3 Ä white
186±2 525±3 ‚ blue
531±3 ‘ red
519±3 D black
190±2 525±3 E violet
531±3 F green
519±3 G yellow
194±2 525±3 brown
531±3 I orange
Selecting piston to cylinder
The design clearance between the piston and cylinder bore
(for new parts) is 0.025 - 0.045. The condition must be ensured
through prior measurements of the associated parts and fitting of
the pistons which belong to the same class of cylinders. The maximum
permissible gap (for worn parts) is 0.15 mm.
When the engine, in the course of operation, shows a clearance
of over 0.15 mm, reselect the pistons to the cylinders to
have the clearance as close to the design value as possible.
The pistons of classes Ä, ‘, … are intended for replacement.
These classes can be selected to closely match any cylinder in
the event of the engine overhaul, since the pistons and cylinders
are classified with small overlapping in the sizes. It means, the
piston of class C can match the cylinders of class B and D.
Dismantling and reassembly
Dismantling. Prise out the gudgeon pin circlips from the piston,
press out the gudgeon pin and detach the connecting rod
from the piston. Remove the piston rings.
The bolts are pressed into the connecting rod and must never
be pressed out from the connecting rods during the engine or piston/
connecting rod dismantling.
When some components of the piston or connecting rod are
not damaged or show little wear, they can be re-used. Identify
them accordingly during dismantling to facilitate further reassembly
with the respective components and to the original cylinder.
Reassembly. Before reassembly, select the gudgeon pin to
match the piston and connecting rod. For new components the
class of the holes for the gudgeon pin in the connecting rod and
pistons must be identical to the class of the gudgeon pin. In case
of used components, for perfect mating, the gudgeon pin when
oiled should fit the relevant piston hole by force of the hand thumb
(Fig.2-32); it should not drop out while held as shown in Fig.2-33.
If the gudgeon pin drops, replace it with a new one of the next
class. When the piston is fitted with the gudgeon pin of the third
class, renew the piston, gudgeon pin and connecting rod.
The reassembly of the piston and connecting rod is a reversal
of dismantling. After reassembly oil the gudgeon pin through
the holes in the piston bosses. Refit the piston rings in the order
as detailed below.
Oil the piston rings and grooves in the piston. Arrange the piston
rings so that the gap of the first compression ring is at a 45¡
interval to the gudgeon pin; space the gap of the second compression
ring at about 180¡ interval to the first compression gap,
afterwards align the gap of the oil ring at about 90¡ interval to the
first compression ring gap.
23
Fig.2-32. Fitting the gudgeon pin using the thumb pressure Fig.2-33. Checking the gudgeon pin fitting
Make certain the second compression ring is positioned with
the recess facing down (Fig.2-30), while the TOP (or ‚…•) mark
should face up (the piston crown).
Before refitting the oil ring, check to see the joint of the coil
expander (spreader ring) is on the side opposite to the ring gap.
Inspection
Scrape away all traces of carbon from the piston and remove
all carbon deposits from the piston/connecting rod oilways.
Thoroughly examine the components. Make sure there are
no cracks of any sort on the piston, piston rings, gudgeon pin,
connecting rod or big-end cap. Renew the bearing shell if there
is obvious scoring or scuffing.
The piston-ring-to-groove wall clearance is checked using
feeler blades as shown in Fig.2-34, fitting the ring into the respective
groove. For new components the design clearance (rounded
off to the nearest 0.01 mm) is 0.04-0.07 mm for the first compression
ring; 0.03-0.06 mm for the second compression ring and
0.02-0.05 mm for the oil control ring. When worn, the tolerance
must not exceed the specified maximum of 0.15 mm.
The piston ring gap should be checked with a feeler gauge
via inserting the rings into the gauge (Fig.2-35), with the bore
equal to the piston ring nominal diameter ±0.003 mm. Use gauge
67.8125.9502 for the normal 82 mm rings.
The gap for all new piston rings should be within 0.25 to 0.45
mm. The maximum permitted gap for worn rings is 1 mm.
Crankshaft and flywheel
Design description
Basic dimensions of the crankshaft are shown in Fig.2-36.
Crankshaft is cast-iron, of five bearings. The crankshaft
journals can be reground during the engine overhaul when the
diameter is reduced by 0.25 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.75 mm and 1mm.
The crankshaft endfloat is restricted by two thrust washers.
The thrust washers are fitted on both sides of the rear main bearing:
a sintered one (yellow) at the rear end and a steel-aluminium
one at the front end. The thrust washers are of two sizes - standard
and 0.127 mm thicker.
Crankshaft bearing shells are thin-walled, aluminium with
steel backing. The upper bearing shells of No 1, 2, 4 è 5 bearings
have inner oil grooves, whilst the lower bearing shells are plain
shells. The upper and lower bearing shells of the centre bearing
(No 3) are plain, without an oil groove. The big-end bearing shells
(both upper and lower ones) are also plain.
The oversize bearing shells are thicker for the crankshaft
journals reduced by 0.25 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.75 mm and 1 mm.
Flywheel is cast iron with the pressed-in steel starter ring.
The flywheel centering is ensured by a front input shaft bearing
which is pressed into the crankshaft.
A taper recess on the rear face of the flywheel near the ring
gear is provided as a positioning mark. Adjust it against cylinder
No 4 crankpin.
Inspection and overhaul
Crankshaft. Inspect the crankshaft. Make sure there are no
cracks. Examine the faces which mate the oil seal working edges
for evident cracking, scoring or scuffing.
Mount the crankshaft on two V-blocks as shown in Fig.2-37
and check the run-out with a dial gauge:
• main bearing journals - maximum 0.03 mm;
• mounting surfaces for the input shaft sprocket and bearing
- maximum 0.04 mm;
• surface mating the oil seal - maximum 0.05 mm.
Measure the diameters of the main bearing journals and
24
Fig.2-34. Checking the piston ring-to-groove gap
Fig. 2-35. Checking the piston ring gap
crankpins. Regrind when the wear is in excess of 0.03 mm, ovality
is over 0.03 mm, or when scoring and scuffing is obvious.
Regrind the journals and crankpins through reducing the
diameter to the nearest undersize (Fig.2-36).
When regrinding, observe the sizes for the crankshaft fillet as
shown in Fig.2-36 for the standard-size crankshaft.
The ovality and taper for the main bearing journals and bigend
bearing journals after regrinding must not exceed 0.005 mm.
On a reground crankshaft, the vertical offset of the crankpins
axes must be 0.35 mm (Fig.2-37). To check this, place the crankshaft
on V-blocks and position the crankshaft so that No1
crankpin axis is in the horizontal plane passing through the main
bearing journal axes. Using a dial gauge, check the vertical offset
of crankpins No 2, No 3 and No 4 against crankpin No 1.
After regrinding the journals and crankpins, polish them using
the diamond paste or special grinding pastes.
After regrinding and followed finishing, unplug the oilways,
then machine the plug seats with the mill-cutter Ä.94016/10 and
spindle Ä.94016. Thoroughly wash the crankshaft and oilways to
flush abrasive residuals and blow dry with compressed air.
Use tool Ä.86010 to press in new plugs and punch each plug
in three points with a centre-punch.
On crankshaft web No 1 mark the reduced amount (undersize)
of the main bearing journals and big-end journals (eg. M
0.25; B 0.50).
Bearing shells. Remember that no adjustment on the bearing
shells is allowed. Renew the shells when there are scratches,
scoring or flaking.
The main and big-end bearing running clearance is checked
by measuring the components. It is convenient to check the
clearance with the help of ÇPlastigageÈ (which consists of a fine
thread of perfectly-round plastic, which is compressed between
the bearing cap shell and the crankshaft journal) under the following
procedure:
- ensure the journals and bearing shells are clean and dry,
cut several pieces of the appropriate-size Plastigage (they should
be slightly shorter than the width of the bearings) and place one
piece on each crankshaft journal axis;
- with the bearing shells in position in the cages, fit the caps to
their original locations (depending on the journal checked). Take care
not to disturb the Plastigage. Then tighten the securing nuts and bolts
to the specified torque. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 51 •ì
(5.2 kgf¥m), while the main bearing cap bolts to 80.4 •ì (8.2 kgf•m);
- remove the bearing cap and check the running clearance by
comparing the width of the crushed Plastigage on each journal
with the scale printed on the card gauge to obtain the bearing
running clearance (Fig.2-38).
25
Fig.2-36. Basic crankshaft dimensions
Fig.2-37. Permissible runouts for basic crankshaft surfaces
The nominal design clearance is 0.02-0.07 mm for the
crankpins and 0.026-0.073 mm for the main bearing journal.
When the running clearance is below the maximum value (0.1
mm for the big-end bearing journals and 0.15 mm for the main
bearing journals), the bearing shells can be re-used.
When the running clearance exceeds the specified maximum,
replace the respective bearing shells with new ones.
Where the crankshaft journals are worn and are reground to
their undersize, change the bearing shells to those oversize.
Thrust washers. Similar to the bearing shells, no adjustments
are possible on the thrust washers. Always renew the
thrust washers when there is scoring, scuffing or flaking.
The thrust washers must be renewed when the crankshaft
endfloat exceeds the specified limit of 0.35 mm. Select new thrust
washers of the standard size or 0.127 mm thicker to have the
endfloat within 0.06 - 0.26 mm.
The crankshaft endfloat is checked with the help of a dial
gauge as outlined in Section ÇEngine reassemblyÈ (Fig.2-14).
The crankshaft endfloat can be also checked on the engine in
the vehicle. The axial shift of the crankshaft occurs at depressing
and releasing the clutch pedal, the endfloat value is determined
by the front crankshaft end displacement.
Flywheel. Inspect the teeth of the flywheel starter ring,
should they are found deteriorated, renew the flywheel. If there
are temper colours on flywheel face 3 (Fig.2-39), check the
starter ring interference on the flywheel. The starter ring should
not rotate when applying 590 •ì (60 kgf•m).
Check to see there are no scratches or scores on flywheel
face 1 mating the crankshaft flange or on surface 3 mating the
clutch disc.
Remove by lathing all scratches or scores on face 3, provided
the overall thickness is reduced maximum by 1 mm. Do not
forget to lathe surface 2 maintaining the size (0.5±0.1) mm.
Ensure surfaces 2 and 3 are parallel to surface 1. The out-of-parallelism
tolerance is 0.1 mm.
Mount the flywheel on the tool, centralize is over the mounting
bore against surface 1 and check the run-out of surfaces 2
and 3. The run-out values at the outboard points must not exceed
0.1 mm.
Cylinder head and valve gear
General description
Refer to Fig. 2-40 for basic sizes of the valves, guides and
valve seats.
Cylinder head is an aluminium casting with the pressed-in iron
valve seats and valve guides.
The top of the valve guides is sealed with metal-rubber oil caps
3 (Fig.2-41).
26
Fig.2-38. Measuring the big-end bearing running clearance:
1 - crushed Plastigage; 2 - bearing shell; 3 - big end cap; 4 - scale for clearance
measurement
Fig.2-39. Flywheel:
1 - surface mating the crankshaft flange; 2 - surface for clutch securing; 3 -
clutching surface
The outer diameter of the replacement guides is 0.2 mm bigger.
Bearing housing 5 with camshaft 6 is fitted to the cylinder
head.
Valve train. Valves 2 are operated by the cams through
levers 4. One end of the lever pushes the valve stem, while the
other end rests on the spherical head of adjuster bolt 7 which
adjusts the clearance A in the valve gear.
Valve clearance adjustment
The clearances are adjusted on the cold engine by means of
the chain adequately tensioned. The adjustment should result is
0.15±0.02 mm clearance for the intake valves and 0.2±0.02 mm
clearance for the exhaust valves.
While making adjustments, do not to twist the valve lever,
since it may result in a bigger final clearance.
The clearance is adjusted as follows:
- turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the indentation in the
camshaft sprocket with the mark on the bearing housing, which
corresponds to the end of the compression stroke of the cylinder
No4. Now in this position adjust the clearance at the cylinder No4
exhaust valve (No8 cam) and cylinder No3 intake valve (No6 cam);
- slacken the valve lever adjuster bolt nut;
- between the valve lever and cam place a flat feeler blade
(A.95111) of 0.15 mm for the intake valve (0.2 mm for the exhaust
valve) and using a spanner tighten or slacken the bolt with further
27
Fig.2-40. Basic dimensions of the valves, valve guides and valve seats
Fig.2-41. Cylinder head cross-sectional view showing the exhaust valve:
1 - cylinder head; 2 - valve; 3 - oil cap; 4 - lever; 5 - bearing housing; 6 -
camshaft; 7 - adjuster bolt; 8 - lock nut; Ä - cam-to-lever clearance
lock nut tightening, until the blade is a firm sliding fit when the lock
nut is tightened (Fig.2-42);
- after the clearance is adjusted at the cylinder No4 exhaust
valve and cylinder No3 intake valve, turn the crankshaft progressively
to the 180¡ and adjust the clearances, observing the
sequence as shown in Table 2-2.
Table 2-2
Valve clearance adjustment
Crankshaft angle, Cylinder No Valve (cam) No
degrees (end of compression stroke)
0 4 8 & 6
180 2 4 & 7
360 1 1 & 3
540 3 5 & 2
Cylinder head - removal and refitting
The cylinder head is removed from the engine in the vehicle,
when no complete stripping of the engine is required, or when
carbon deposit
)
